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Old 05-11-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Ok, so I'm driving the freeway yesterday and a piece of road debris hits my right front quarter panel and I just know something's wrong when my warning light indicating a light failure turns on.

I pull over and notice that my brand new [2 weeks ago] clear side-marker light is gone and the wiring is hanging out of the hole and the light bulb is completely gone.

I really liked the look of the clear side-markers, but until I get a chance to order another set [since I can't just get the passenger side] , I thought I'd paint my amber side-markers black to match the body and re-install them to see how it looked.

I'm actually quite pleased with the look. What do ya'll think? Here's a before and after pic.
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Old 05-11-2008   #2 (permalink)
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Sorry to hear about the road debris. I think the clear marker looks(ed) great!
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Old 05-11-2008   #3 (permalink)
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I got chased down by a renagade hubcap at 80mph on I-95, I changed lanes it change lanes till it got me
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Old 05-12-2008   #4 (permalink)
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I got chased down by a renagade hubcap at 80mph on I-95, I changed lanes it change lanes till it got me
I was faced in a similar situation changed lanes and hit the car behind me on its windshield.
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Old 05-13-2008   #5 (permalink)
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The painted side markers make the R170 look "European" (i.e., Euro Spec). Does the amber light shine through the black paint? or is it very subdued?

Clear side marker or painted black, they both look good. I use the PIAA Plasma Ion Wedge 5W lamp on mine and it lights up yellow instead of amber, just to look different.
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Old 05-13-2008   #6 (permalink)
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The painted side markers make the R170 look "European" (i.e., Euro Spec). Does the amber light shine through the black paint? or is it very subdued?
I used a gloss black spray paint that said it was formulated specifically for painting plastics. I was concerned about the light bleeding through the side-markers, so I also painted the bulbs so that no light shines though the side-markers at all.

I couldn't just leave the bulbs out due to the warning light on the instrument cluster coming on when the bulb is removed/not working properly.

Oh, and one more thing, I need to locate a replacement for the piece of plastic that actually holds the bulb because it broke the lens was forced out by the road debris. It will no longer twist into the socket on the lens. Anyone know if this part can be purchased from MB?

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Old 05-14-2008   #7 (permalink)
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Clear side marker or painted black, they both look good. I use the PIAA Plasma Ion Wedge 5W lamp on mine and it lights up yellow instead of amber, just to look different.
x2, I think they look equally as nice, cleared or painted, just not amber like OEM.
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Old 05-20-2008   #8 (permalink)
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... I couldn't just leave the bulbs out due to the warning light on the instrument cluster coming on when the bulb is removed/not working properly. ...

Mike
You could leave the bulb out and fasten a resister in its place. Say 2Ω 4w. Just double check the resistance of the OEM bulb, but 4 watts is what a standard type 1157 bulb draws.

Just a suggestion.
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Old 05-20-2008   #9 (permalink)
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You could leave the bulb out and fasten a resister in its place. Say 2Ω 4w. Just double check the resistance of the OEM bulb, but 4 watts is what a standard type 1157 bulb draws.

Just a suggestion.
That sounds interesting, but I'm afraid you lost me. Would it be something I plug into where the bulb would normally go? The bulbs have a "168" imprinted on the side, so I guess that's the size?

Thanks.

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Old 05-21-2008   #10 (permalink)
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168 refers to the wedge 5W bulb. 194 type light bulbs will also fit.
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Old 05-21-2008   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks Eddy, Kevin mentioned putting a 'resister' in place of the bulb because I don't need the bulb to light up. I'm confused about the resister; is this something I can get at my local parts store?

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Old 05-21-2008   #12 (permalink)
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Noregrets4life is the expert on the resistors.
They do get hot, so it needs to be isolated and insulated from other parts.
This is mainly to prevent the on board computer telling you that the bulbs/lamps are not functioning.
Some soldering involved. I think just painting the bulbs black is the simplest way to go.
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Old 05-22-2008   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks... I actually just ordered a new set of the clear lenses, so I'll be back to those soon.

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Old 05-25-2008   #14 (permalink)
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Hey Mike!

I wasn't ignoring you. I've been out of the loop the last week, had a church leadership conference to go to.

Eddy is right, it would require some soldering, it isn't anything you'd find at an automotive parts store per say. And he's also correct about the wattage rating being high enough not to cause any thermal damage. That's why I suggested 4w based on the formula for voltage/current flow and the bulb rating.

But your plan sounds like it will work best for you, I'm just a geek when it comes to electrical/electronic modifications to accomplish something...occupational hazard. (I'm an electronic technician.)
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Old 05-26-2008   #15 (permalink)
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Hey Kevin, no problem... After looking at the black lenses for the last couple of weeks, I began missing the look of the clear lenses, so that's why I got another set and installed them. The black looked good, but I do think the clear looks better.

Sounded like a good idea, though, with the resister and I would've sought your advice more had I planned on leaving the black lenses on. Thanks!

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Old 05-30-2008   #16 (permalink)
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good call on going back to the clears... you wouldn't want to give the local cops any easy P/C to pull you over...
(and the clears really do look a lot better IMHO)
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Old 05-31-2008   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks, Scott. I agree. I'm really liking the clear lenses.

No PC though for a stop here in Texas without the side-markers. They are allowed, but not required.

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