Driver Window Sticking When Going Up (Video) - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum
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#1 Old 05-21-2013
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Driver Window Sticking When Going Up (Video)

Hello All,

So I have had this problem with the window since I bought the car last month. For the most part I just help "pull" the window up to prevent sticking but I feel like it must be a simple issue where the piece above the door is just grabing the window too hard. It is putting excessive strain on the window motor and I am wondering what could be causing this or how I can adjust this.

Please see youtube video below:

http://youtu.be/W53K6_Dr7ZY

Any tips would be great!
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#2 Old 05-21-2013
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Seems like you have to take the door cover off and then you'll see your culprit. May be some piece broke off and stuck in there. To me it sounds like it. May be window limit switch. Never taken door apart. Doesn't seem too hard. Look here:
http://www.buellwinkle.com/r170/
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#3 Old 05-22-2013
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Try adding some lubricant in that area next to the mirror where the the window is sticking...had the same problem and squirted some 303 protectant in the there. 303 is like armorall. Worked fine for me...Smooth now


Quote:
Originally Posted by mgconcierge View Post
Hello All,

So I have had this problem with the window since I bought the car last month. For the most part I just help "pull" the window up to prevent sticking but I feel like it must be a simple issue where the piece above the door is just grabing the window too hard. It is putting excessive strain on the window motor and I am wondering what could be causing this or how I can adjust this.

Please see youtube video below:

http://youtu.be/W53K6_Dr7ZY

Any tips would be great!
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#4 Old 05-22-2013
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Originally Posted by Airmousam View Post
Try adding some lubricant in that area next to the mirror where the the window is sticking...had the same problem and squirted some 303 protectant in the there. 303 is like armorall. Worked fine for me...Smooth now
I have used "Gummi Pflege" on all of my seals (much quieter, as expected) and it has made my passenger window drop more reliably, but is worse at climbing up.
I still need to strip out the door card and have another go at the motor and assembly (first attempt tightened a bolt on the front guide, and made the operation a bit better).

And I've found that my passenger door card has a number of broken mounts; next time in, I'll have some good glue for the larger mounts, but being sure not to glue the smaller (green) buttons, since they a) need to move for alignment and expansion, and b) often break, and so will need to be changed.
I'll post some pictures if I can take anything useful.
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#5 Old 05-22-2013
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What im talking about is not a seal, it in the gap that the window goes up through..squirted in between there



Quote:
Originally Posted by Tolak View Post
I have used "Gummi Pflege" on all of my seals (much quieter, as expected) and it has made my passenger window drop more reliably, but is worse at climbing up.
I still need to strip out the door card and have another go at the motor and assembly (first attempt tightened a bolt on the front guide, and made the operation a bit better).

And I've found that my passenger door card has a number of broken mounts; next time in, I'll have some good glue for the larger mounts, but being sure not to glue the smaller (green) buttons, since they a) need to move for alignment and expansion, and b) often break, and so will need to be changed.
I'll post some pictures if I can take anything useful.
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#6 Old 05-23-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airmousam View Post
What im talking about is not a seal, it in the gap that the window goes up through..squirted in between there
Fair point.
the guide channel is not precisely a seal (though it does have that function as well) but it definitely is "external" rubber, so it got the seal treatment just like all teh otehr bits of rubber that had teh primary function of preventing passage of water and wind, and those that prevented fretting and noise.
It had teh same result; down is easier, and up doesn't happen!
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#7 Old 05-26-2013
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It's really being problematic. I tried taking the door panel off but got stuck when it came do undoing the door handle cable. I am getting my bumper finally fixed from the accident on Tuesday. I think I am going to have the shop repairing it just take a look.
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#8 Old 06-03-2013
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Procedure

Quote:
Originally Posted by mgconcierge View Post
I tried taking the door panel off but got stuck when it came do undoing the door handle cable. I think I am going to have the shop repairing it just take a look.
OK, a quick guide, from memory.
1. Pull off the triangle inside the mirror mount
2. Unscrew the metal plate at the lock end of the door (2 screws); this covers the rubber "gasket" that seals the hole that you will use to remove the glass.
3. Unscrew the lock trim plate (1 screw)
4. Pull off the inner trim of the handle you use to close the door, and remove the two PZ3 screws revealed there.
5. Pull off the little SRS Airbag plug towards the back of the door, and remove the PZ3 screw inside there.
6. Now pulling carefully, with the help of a large flat-bladed screwdriver, release the 7 clips; two on rear edge, three across base, and two on front edge of door. (It may be that not all of these are unbroken/fitted)
7. The door card should now be hanging from the top edge. Lift the card out from the door slightly to confirm nothing forgotten, and then up, and the card should be in your hands, with two remaining connections.
8. Connection 1 is the wiring to the tweeter in the handle area; look for the electrical connector and detach.
9. Connection 2 is the door release; I found I could pull the cable outer clear of the black plastic, and then lever the gold coloured pin out of the white plastic clip. (It may be the other order is correct; my way worked for me, so that's how I've done it twice)
10. The door card should now be fully released, and should be stored out of the way, where the wind or children will not knock it over.
11. There should be a waterproof sheet across the door, to keep the card dry and to protect the speaker; check layout and remove carefully.

Now for the window. I did mine yesterday, and tried to deal with everything, as no one thing was obviously wrong.

If you leave the glass installed, the mechanism will fall once the motor is released; this could be painful or expensive. Decide if you will restrain the glass or remove it.

I would suggest removing the glass; to remove it, drop the window down to almost the bottom, so you can see the long rail with two large T30 screws (one at each end). Leave these connected for the moment.
This is a good time to turn off the ignition, and possibly disconnect the battery, so it doesn't accidentally start to work when your fingers are in the middle of it!
At the rear edge, there is an aluminium guide clamped to the glass, and sliding on a white coated curved guide. Go under the bottom edge of the door beside the end of the guide, and you will find a black plastic bung; this can be pulled out with fingers, or carefully with a screwdriver, and the lower bolt for the guide revealed. (T25 screw) Remove the bottom screw, and also the top one, and take note of the orientation of the guide. You can drop the guide into the bottom of the door, or remove it.
Please take note of the parts you are about to remove, as the reassembly is tricky, and I cannot remember all the details. Please let me know when you have done it, and I will edit in the corrected update.
Now unbolt the guide (10mm AF bolt) and collect the bolt, guide, glass protector and backing plate, taking particular regard to the curve on the backing plate.

You are now ready to remove the glass.
Undo the two T30 screws connecting the glass to the carrier, and you can then lift the glass up (push from inside and pull from top edge) until it is almost fully up; you can then slide it back out of the edge of the door, being sure to allow for the two large tangs that the screws went into, and the front end-stop that should be stuck to the glass within a couple of inches of the front edge. Put the glass somewhere safe.

Now, with no load on the scissor action, you can remove the motor. This is the silver item about 1 foot down and 1 foot from the front inside the door cavity. Firstly squeeze and disconnect the electrical connector. Then undo the three screws (T30 or T25, sorry, don't remember), being sure to take the weight of the motor inside the door as you undo the last screw. The motor and its gearbox have an output shaft with a large gear on it, which should be nice and greasy!

There are two things left inside the door related to the window; first is the front travel stop, which is bolted to the top front of the inside to the door by a 10mm nut with a captive washer. Do not undo this unless you are adept at finding and refitting awkward bits. It also provides the reference that the window uses to shut to the same location, so if it was good, leave it alone. It has no impact on the operation of the window.
The second is the scissor assembly; driven by a large quadrant gear that engages with the output gear of the motor, it has a slider on the bar from which you disconnected the glass, and another just inside the skin of the door just above the long slot that allowed you to see both screws to remove the glass.

So, now it is all in bits, what do you have to do?
Grab the chance, whilst you still have grease-free hands, to clean the glass, including under the weather seal area. No functional benefit, but it's just nice to know it's clean in there!
First, clean the rear guide bar, and carefully take out and clean the nylon inserts in the aluminium guide. Because this is nylon, try to use lithium grease on the guide bar and inside the nylon inserts when reassembling into aluminium guide. (My guide had very stale lithium grease dried on the rail and inside the nylon inserts; cleaning and fresh grease made this into a slick and smooth operation)
Secondly, grease the two sliders for the scissor mechanism. You should be able to move this up and down freely, with no sticky zones; since it is unloaded, there is no force to make it stick. (Both my sliders had a big sticky area in the middle of the operation)
If you can, put some grease on the teeth of the quadrant gear and oil on any of the pivots of the scissor mechanism.
Prepare to run the winder motor; connect battery, turn on ignition, etc. With the motor in your hand, connect it to the electrical connector, and then press the switch to run it in each direction. It should be smooth and snatch-free. Turn off the ignition, disconnect battery, disconnect the motor, and now put some grease on the gear and output shaft.

Now to reassemble.
With the scissor mechanism as low as you can comfortably have (pref so you can see both screws to refit the glass) put the motor back inside the door cavity. The output shaft engages in a plain bush, and the gear engages with the quadrant gear, so a bit of twist and fiddle is to be expected. When in place, each of the three screw mountings can be felt to be against the metal work; you may even be able to see them through the screw holes. Now fit the three screws; loosely at first, then once all three are engaged, tighten all three up. The motor should be firmly attached, and the quadrant gear should not be able to move. (This was one of the problems with mine; I only had two of the screw fitted on strip-down, so the output gear kept misaligning and the extra load stopped the window.)
Now is also a good time to connect the electrical connector, to prevent the air turning blue later!

Ready to refit the glass; slot it into the back edge of the door, being sure not to knock the front lift stop or the mounting tangs on the paint as you put them in. Lower the glass (one hand inside, one outside) down to the carrier, and align the holes for the large screws. Note that beside each tang that takes the screw thread, there is a tag that engages in a slot on the far side of the carrier. If you fit this right, these tags hold the glass in place, and fitting the screws is easy. Tighten up the 2 T30 screws.
Fit the rear guide bar; I found that the top engages into its area, the bottom swivels into the recess, and the top slides forwards to lock the bottom in the lower recess. Fit both screws, but not tighten. Slide bar as far away from the glass as you can.
Now to fit the aluminium guide. First, fit the nylon glass protector through the hole (larger grippy section towards you, lining the glass hole from your side, and the smaller panel for the tapered backing plate goes on the far side of the glass. Offer the aluminium guide onto the guide rail, and press against the glass protector. Put the bolt through. Offer the backing plate, with the shortest edge uppermost, and the curved face away from the glass (TBC, see above), on the far side of the glass, and engage the bolt in the threads. Tighten to a low torque (don't want to crack the glass, now, do we?) and check the rail is well aligned. Tighten the top and bottom screws for the guide rail.

The glass is now fully assembled; you can reconnect the battery, turn on the ignition, and drive the glass up and down a few times to confirm no nasty noises. With the glass fully up, shut the door and confirm you are happy with the seal pressure; if it needs adjusting, adjust the position of the bottom screw of the guide rail. Outwards will force the window edge tighter, and inwards (towards the seat) will decrease the seal pressure.
Once you are happy with that; fully tighten the lower rail screw, and refit the black plastic bung.

Refitting the door card is the reverse of the removal procedure.
Voila; another job done!

I was surprised at this stage that the motor didn't need to learn the end-of-travel current; other cars need both windows pushed up to the top stops and held for a couple of seconds to learn the maximum current that should disconnect the one-touch.

And I was happy to find out my passenger window had one-touch to open.
And now when I open and close the roof, both windows work as expected, every time!
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