How to open to R170 Top manually?

Arachnyd · 04-22-2012

I've asked this before and everyone said "do reverse of what the manual said" or "look at the online guides".

EVERY GUIDE i've read says to open it with the button, and the manual says to just push it into place... well I bought the guides and I have the manual and I cant figure out how to open the top manually.

I tore apart the interior, loosened the screw the manual says to, I opened the trunk without a problem, I did what I think I should do to unlock the top (move from position 8 to position 7 with a hex wrench) and now what? I tugged, I pulled, I pushed, nothing.

Any pointers?

Thanks!

brusby · 04-22-2012

I don't have my manual handy, but I recall there being 3 main things to do:

1) Release the pressure in the hydraulic system - turn counterclockwise the hex nut on the main hydraulic unit located in the right trunk. Use the supplied wrench that should be located nearby.

2) Pull the 2 metal cables to release the trunk lid latching mechanism - these are located in the trunk; one on each side.

3) Undo the latch where the roof contacts the windshield - use the same hex wrench as in #1 above

It is explained in more detail with illustrations in the manual.

lilred320SLK · 04-22-2012

Although pulling the cables AND lifting the trunk is difficult for one person alone. (Was for me anyway.) I tended to pull the cable one side at a time, break the trunk lid latches loose, and prop that side up (1/4") to keep it from re-latching, then doing the other side. Then I could close the trunk and do the reverse open.

One additional thing to make sure of (particularly when closing the roof) is that you keep the latching bolt (middle of the roof near the windshield under the small hole in the headliner with the 6mm wrench) turned all the way over!! This is difficult to see with the headliner in place but you can watch the clamping paws as the pins start to engage. The paw position tends to drift a bit and you might have to reopen them. If they aren't all the way open they can jam up; in which case, forcing them or letting the roof "slam" could damage the latch system . . . Believe me it is very intricate!

Not only does the latch bolt work the latching paws at the front corners of the roof, it also pulls some catches along side the rear pillars to allow the top panel to fold. The roof should slide into place pretty easily if the latch bolt is turned all the way. (No brute force should be needed, though it's a bit cumbersome and a longer reach is helpful.) I was routinely doing this by myself when I was replacing my headliner and upgrading my cylinder seals. Another reason to be careful is that in automatic mode, the car puts all the windows down first. In manual mode, you can put the sides down, but the rear quarter windows would still normally be up. The roof/window seals have to fit properly into place and I've heard of people cracking the rear quarter windows if the roof slams down and everything isn't in alignment.

Note that my pictures are with the headliner and trim removed as seen from the driver's seat.

Arachnyd · 04-22-2012

Thank you both for getting back to me. As I said, I got the trunk hinged open all the way. (takes care of 1 and 2), which only leaves me 3. I turned it all the way to position 7 in the manual- no luck. turned it all the way to 8 just to try again- still no luck. I guess the lock mechanism must be broken or sticking? or is there a special way to pull the roof back?

If not, I guess the only option is to take a knife to the headliner?

lilred320SLK · 04-22-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arachnyd

Thank you both for getting back to me. As I said, I got the trunk hinged open all the way. (takes care of 1 and 2), which only leaves me 3. I turned it all the way to position 7 in the manual- no luck. turned it all the way to 8 just to try again- still no luck. I guess the lock mechanism must be broken or sticking? or is there a special way to pull the roof back?

If not, I guess the only option is to take a knife to the headliner?

So the trunk is reversed open, you've released the hydraulic pressure in the lines by opening (turning out) the screw on the side of the pump, and you have turned the wrench in the latch bolt until it stops. (I've forgotten which way to turn it at the moment. (I think clockwise while looking up?) If not turn it one way till it stops, try opening it, then turn it all the way to the other extreme till it stops, and try opening it. It might need a little working back and forth to get those rear pillar latches to totally unlatch.)

Now here may be a bit of helpful trick; I usually leave the allen type wrench in the latch bolt pointing toward the driver side at 90 degrees to the axis of the car so I can use it as a handle. (I have longer "L" wrenches than most so I can get a good grip on it.) So normally, while I'm sitting in the driver's seat, and keeping the wrench twisted, I'll pull the wrench/roof backwards (rearwards) with my right hand (US car) and then reach back with my left hand and push upwards on the back of the roof panel. (Just watch your fingers around the hinges.)

If the roof hasn't been operated in a while, the seals might be a bit stiff and sticky. You should feel some "resistance" when you turn the wrench in the latch bolt since you are also moving the cylinder as well as the linkages and cables. It should feel like a bit of a "spring" when you're turning the latch and it's at the end of travel and latching, where as it just stops turning when it is fully open.

Hope that helps.

Arachnyd · 04-24-2012

Thanks so much for the pics and the explanation. One of the latches was getting stuck, and once I saw how the linkages were working, I was able to work it open!

lilred320SLK · 04-24-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arachnyd

Thanks so much for the pics and the explanation. One of the latches was getting stuck, and once I saw how the linkages were working, I was able to work it open!

Glad to hear you got it. Did you have to cut the headliner or did the explanations help/allow you to work through the sticking?

Arachnyd · 04-25-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by lilred320SLK

Glad to hear you got it. Did you have to cut the headliner or did the explanations help/allow you to work through the sticking?

The left side was separating, but not the right side. Makes sense when you know there are two latches, but I was under the misconception that there was only ONE latch in the middle... so I pushed forward, and then did what you did (using the hex wrench as a handle) and got the right side to open without having to cut the headliner, so thanks!

lilred320SLK · 04-25-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arachnyd

. . . Makes sense when you know there are two latches, but I was under the misconception that there was only ONE latch in the middle... . . .

Sorry it wasn't clear, a bit of terminology confusion. There is one "latch cylinder" in the front center of the roof and this normally operates the two sets of actual "latches/catches" . . . The main latches at each of the front corners of the roof, attaching the roof to the windshield frame. And then the two "catches" that locks the hinges in place between the roof and the back window frame.

Glad you got it working.

gfrumusa · 1 Week Ago

hi guys, very well done article on releasing the rear r 170 top latches. i have the same problem so i can make use of this big time. but, i can't figure out how to get the b pillar trim off. looks from the pics like it should just pull off. hard to get at and don't want to break it. can you advise? then i can get at the cables that pull the latches. wondering how you adjust them so they will be sure to pull the latches loose?

jbanks15 · 1 Week Ago

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