1998 SLK 230 Engine Shuts off Suddenly - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum
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#1 Old 10-14-2010
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1998 SLK 230 Engine Shuts off Suddenly

Car is a 1998 SLK 230 with 140K Miles (not my car but helping out a friend).

About a week ago car started shutting off suddenly while driving down the road. No engine codes or any other warning lights when it does this. This has happend three times within the last week, and first two times were on the same day, less than an hour apart.

When it first happend, we had been driving for about 15 minutes when suddenly (while driving) the engine turned off without warning. It was as if I had turned off the ignition by turnning the key. This happened under normal weather conditions and at around 40 MPH hwy driving speeds. Car was running perfect prior to this. So my friend put it in park and tried to restart it, but no go. No dash lights, No clicks No cranks (starter didn’t turn), almost like the battery had died completely. So we let the car sit for about 10 minutes and tried it again. This time it started right up and we were able to get to our destination about 4 miles away without it happenning again. However, on the way back (we havent even been back on the road for more than a couple of minutes), it shut off again when we came upon a stop light. Once again, tried to start it again, but no clicks, cranks, bells or whistles what so ever. Pushed the car to a corner and tried again after about 15 minutes and it started right up again. We got back home (which was about 7 miles away) thru hwy traffic without any further shutdowns on that day.

Very next morning, (there's alaways the next morning), car started up fine but died after it had been idling for about 5 minutes (while talking to neighbors) before even attempting to pull out of the drive way. This time however, it started right back-up and drove fine (short distance and back). Now we are kind of scared to drive this little beast without first figuring out what might be causing this problem. About 8 months ago, I’ve checked the relay board and did not find anything wrong with it at the time (I was cleaning the IC and the MAF when I checked it). From time to time, this car has the “No Blinking turn signal" syndrome. But it goes away quickly, if we turn on, and then turn off the turn signal switch rapidly for few seconds. But that hasn’t happened for a while and the car has been running perfectly. Only service that was done recently was that we had rear brake rotors and pads replaced two months ago. Car has been driving fine since then up untill we started having this shut-off problem.

I’ve read in the forum a defective “Crank Shaft Position” sensor might be contributing to this. Could this be the problem? For sake of understanding this, let us assume that CPS was indeed defective.

Shouldnt I still be able to crank the engine and hear the starter motor trying to turn the engine (hear clicks, cranks etc.)?????

Stumped on this one since there are no engine codes thrown . Any help and suggestions will be greatly appreciated before I start throwing parts at this.

Cheers!
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#2 Old 10-14-2010
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That's some problem you have there, a code would be nice but since there aren't any i would start with the battery cables to see if they are tight or look for any damage. Let us know what you find.
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#3 Old 10-14-2010
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BTW, welcome
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#4 Old 10-14-2010
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Thanks LiveFreeOrDie,

I will post what I find. By the way, I spent some time in NH few years ago during fall time, it was absolutely beautiful.


Regards.

Last edited by skyfox; 10-16-2010 at 03:48 PM.
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#5 Old 10-15-2010
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It still looks great this time of year. Good luck with the car hope you get it working.
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#6 Old 10-15-2010
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When it shuts down do any of the accessories work?

The turn signal problem leads me to believe the culprit might be in the steering column.

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#7 Old 10-15-2010
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Hello All again.

tcrankwa,

I am not sure, but I beleive when we tried to start it after it had shut-off the normal dash indicators were on, but car would not turn over.


Update:

This morning I checked under the hood and notice Blue/Greenish crystal build up around the battery's Ground terminal. Terminal was completely covered with this stuff. I don't recall ever seeing this before on this car and last time I looked about two weeks ago. Car has been parked and has not been driven for the past twoo weeks. But we did start it several times and let it idle and then shut it off. It has always atarted every time on the first go ever since my friend bought this about 2 1/2 years ago. Anyhow, I've checked the battery voltage while cold, first thing this morning, and it was around 12.5 volts. Then I started the car, turned on the headlights, car steerio, A/C, seat heaters and reved the engine to about 3000 RPM for few seconds and then when around and checked the battery voltage and it was around 14.5 volts. This is a OEM MB Battery (76 AMPS Ibelieve) and if I remember correctly had a date code of 2001. Also, this battery seems to be the kind that you needed to add distilled water in to (had six removable caps on top). I ve also stomped on the brake pedal several times to make sure it wasnt the switches in the brake system causing the engine to shut-off. Moved the shifter up/down/sideway's several times as well, and cycled the hand brake hoping something would shut-off the engine. Nothing. It idled fine for about ten minutes.

I shut the car off and checked the codes again. It had 1 code, 0455. But the engine check light was not on. So clered the code and it had gone away after I restarted the car. Not sure it will come back again after driving. Now off to find what that code is.

I am still kind of hoping to get an answer to my original question supposing the Crank Position Sensor had gone bad,

Shouldnt I still be able to crank the engine and hear the starter motor trying to turn the engine (hear clicks, cranks etc.)?????

Thanks again.
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#8 Old 10-16-2010
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If the CPS is bad the starter will still do its thing so you should hear it.
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#9 Old 11-22-2011
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My 2001 SLK320 has been shutting down a couple of times while driving. It started right up after the engine has cooled down. Does anyone know the fix for this problem? Is it the CPS?
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#10 Old 11-22-2011
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szmb, welcome from New Hampshire
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#11 Old 09-02-2012
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Hi, my 2000 slk started this behavior a few day ago however several weeks ago it went into limp mode but I think it was because I disconnected the TCU and attempted to start the car, “silly on my part.” Paid 100 bucks to have the code removed and all normal again but recently as early as yesterday Saturday, 1 Sep 2012 it stalled on me twice without warning. My negative post has constantly been building up white matter since I’ve owned this car and the negative post was also quite loose meaning it wiggles back and forth in the battery. I had to disconnect the negative terminal, wait 15 to 20 minutes then re-connect – car would start. If I tried to start the engine immediately after it shut down it would turn over and keep attempting to start until I turn the key in the opposite position otherwise it would keep attempting to start almost automatically. The very last time it quit I was in traffic alone and I had to push it off the road. Once it started up again, “after removing the negative cable and waiting” I drove it to AutoZone and had the battery tested, it was bad! Replaced it “although it was not an original MB battery” and still it would not start but this time it was because the connection were not tight enough. I don’t know if having a low battery was my problem as of yet because I haven’t had time to drive the car in anticipation of that dreaded shut down in mid flight. I do wonder if having voltage fewer than 12 volts, “11.85 according to the codes” might have caused me this problem. I also did the K40 relay fix some months ago but I’m going to have another look at it just to be sure. Another crazy thing is the passenger window will not go down during this time. I had all my codes printed out when the TCU was reset and there were quiet a few codes that indicated, “Low voltage.” Somebody please go have a look at my codes and help a brother understand what they are saying to me. In the meanwhile I would encourage you to make sure your battery is perfect then ensure they are properly secure to the battery post both negative and positive for this is a quick and fairly inexpensive place to begin. This little car seems to be all electric so it needs a good battery all the time!
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#12 Old 12-30-2013
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Same problem

The first time it happend was 6 weeks after I purchased the car with 70k on it. pulled into petrol station shut off and filled up. The car just would not start yet the cooling fan ran away at full pelt, after 30 minutes the car stared as though nothing had happened. forgot about it until it happened again two days ago. driving along the road just stopped, same again after 20 min started with no problem. took it to be checked and have the battery tested all OK including termainals and connections.
The codes were read and the following is a list. however I believe that some have no bearing on the matter and are a legacy from before I purchased the car.
135 can
65 comp N15/3 etc Eer faulty
B2 can
PO243 actuator of air flap switchover for component A16/7
C1031 can
C1022 can N3/10 ME-SF Control
C1025-003 ABS
B1000 Das control radio
B1014 Circuit 49 does not conduct electricity of circuit wiper
B1021 can A37 PSE
B1024 Mod N10-1
B1493
B1270
B1276
B1275
B11142
N1241

Now there is a fine mess for you. I would appreciate any help with the problem of cutting out and would appreciate any enlightenment on the codes and how to find a list of modules.
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#13 Old 12-30-2013
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#14 Old 12-30-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tesla6518 View Post
The first time it happend was 6 weeks after I purchased the car with 70k on it. pulled into petrol station shut off and filled up. The car just would not start yet the cooling fan ran away at full pelt, after 30 minutes the car stared as though nothing had happened. forgot about it until it happened again two days ago. driving along the road just stopped, same again after 20 min started with no problem. took it to be checked and have the battery tested all OK including termainals and connections.
The codes were read and the following is a list. however I believe that some have no bearing on the matter and are a legacy from before I purchased the car.
135 can
65 comp N15/3 etc Eer faulty
B2 can
PO243 actuator of air flap switchover for component A16/7
C1031 can
C1022 can N3/10 ME-SF Control
C1025-003 ABS
B1000 Das control radio
B1014 Circuit 49 does not conduct electricity of circuit wiper
B1021 can A37 PSE
B1024 Mod N10-1
B1493
B1270
B1276
B1275
B11142
N1241

Now there is a fine mess for you. I would appreciate any help with the problem of cutting out and would appreciate any enlightenment on the codes and how to find a list of modules.
Welcome aboard

here's a few links to the meanings of your fault codes http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...ml#post1965843
& http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...-repost-7.html
hope you can get it sorted out.


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#15 Old 05-25-2014
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Mine has just had a similar problem.I drove off normally and 100metres down the road the engine just stopped.All the light work on the dash but the starter just makes a whirring noise but not engaging.Any ideas? Battery is fully charged.
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#16 Old 05-27-2014
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I had the same problem with mine. Complete shutdown. Coasted to the breakdown, waited a few minutes and the car started again. Found it was the K40 relay. It can be DIY'd but I just replaced it for short money. Problem has not returned.
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#17 Old 05-31-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by single View Post
Mine has just had a similar problem.I drove off normally and 100metres down the road the engine just stopped.All the light work on the dash but the starter just makes a whirring noise but not engaging.Any ideas? Battery is fully charged.
Turns out mine is a snapped timing chain!!!! Anyone need any parts? AMG bodykit,exhaust,wheels etc?
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#18 Old 05-31-2014
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I have heard of this happening before and it was a bad grounding cable to the engine.
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#19 Old 06-02-2014
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Still on going

I have not been following this thread for some months as my mother died and I have had to deal with everything, However

My problem of the vehicle shutting down and then restarting after 15/20 minutes, has now escalated to not starting at all. I drove it to work which is about 20 miles 8 hrs later when I went to leave it would not start just ramped the fan up and no starter, evrything else seemed to be fine, 30 minutes later it started drove home and parked on the drive. next morning went to go to work and it just would not start. It just kept ramping the fan up I left it for the normal time and nothing an hour and nothing. it seems it has finally died.
can anyone give me some pointers where to start looking, I keep seeing mention of a K40 relay, but can anyone tell me where it is located.

thanks in advance
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#20 Old 06-03-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by single View Post
Turns out mine is a snapped timing chain!!!! Anyone need any parts? AMG bodykit,exhaust,wheels etc?
So whats the chance of the valves being damaged on the 230 engine? I was doing walking speed when the chain snapped.No rattles or anything, it was as if someone turned the ignition off.
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