SLK 230 won't crank?! No start error messages - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 05-23-2014
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SLK 230 won't crank?! No start error messages

OK, straight in with the issues!

We bought our SLK from a guy who had been left it in his uncle's will, bizarrely. It's done 85k but seems to have rusty arches all round. I am hoping to god that the underneath isn't rotten.

Anyway, the car started with fairly little drama the first time, with fresh fuel and a fresh battery on it. It spluttered a bit but got going easier than I had thought it would. Happy days.

It had been stood a couple of years at this point, or so we thought. It looks like it may have actually stood for up to 6 years, going by the date of its last service. The history was pretty regular up to that point.

So the car was left at a garage for an MOT test to see what needs doing. Unfortunately they couldn't start it. I found the fresh battery drained also. My OH mentioned that the car had seemed to get worse and worse for starting as our 250 mile journey home progressed, so I wondered if the alternator was knackered. Leaving it overnight with a charged battery has seen no voltage drop, so I don't think there is a parasitic drain going on. Wiring in a multimeter in series also shows a max reading of just 0.15 amps, so doubt this would drain a battery.

Anyway, I digress, the starting issue: The car would not attempt to crank, but it did not show any start error type messages, which much research has told me can happen. I messed around a lot with the battery and cleaning the ends of the cables etc. No change. I then opened up the black box next to the battery to have a look at the K40 module. I took this apart and the board is spotless, no burned or damaged solder present.

I did notice that somebody at some point has added in a cable with an inline fuse holder to the wiring within the black box No idea on this, and also there is a purple wire been added in the engine bay which I suspect may be some sort of additional earth someone has added at some point.

Anyway, I pulled and inspected all of the fuses on the K40. No problems. I put it all back together and clipped all of the connectors back on and the car started first time!

I tried it again after we took it back home, and it started no probs. I thought I had somehow solved the problem. Tried it this morning and we are back to no attempt to start or crank. Can anybody offer any suggestions? Sorry for the long post.
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#2 Old 05-23-2014
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Bad cell(s) in battery. Get a new one?


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#3 Old 05-23-2014
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It's a brand new battery? The car seems to have drained it on the drive home. I have since recharged it and it has held charge overnight so pretty confident there's no issue witht he battery itself.

Further reading has got me wondering about the crankshaft position sensor. It hasn't cut out during driving though, which some people say it does when this is bad.
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#4 Old 05-23-2014
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Confused !

Are you saying that when you put key in ignition the dash lights illuminate then you go to crank engine over and nothing no click no turn over etc ??

If so then not cps !!
That would not give syptoms of flat battery etc .

If no crank id look at .

Battery Faulty even new ones yes .!!
Starter motor
Test alt under load etc
Ignition
Ignition key
Earth leads / power leads etc
Is fuel old in tank
Fuel filter
K40

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as above, your keyfob. did you remove or check the battery in it? maybe the transponder has been jiggled out of position?


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#6 Old 05-23-2014
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Originally Posted by Delucas View Post
Confused !

Are you saying that when you put key in ignition the dash lights illuminate then you go to crank engine over and nothing no click no turn over etc ??

If so then not cps !!
That would not give syptoms of flat battery etc .

If no crank id look at .

Battery Faulty even new ones yes .!!
Starter motor
Test alt under load etc
Ignition
Ignition key
Earth leads / power leads etc
Is fuel old in tank
Fuel filter
K40

I'm confused too

The battery seemed to have drained between being fitted and being driven the 250 miles home. I've come to this conclusion because the car wouldn't remote lock and unlock the next day. The windows struggled to operate, and the alarm kept trying to go off the previous night when we locked it up, which I have read as being a sign of the battery being low on these. My fiancée also stated that every time we stopped on our drive home, the car got that little bit harder to start each time, indicating a battery drain to me.

So I removed the battery and took it home, got it fully charged and then returned to the car. Upon my return, everything worked perfectly on the electrical side. Clocks lit up, all the dash lights around either side of the clocks were illuminating and the stereo was coming on etc.

I turned the key and the car still wouldn't crank. It wasn't trying to start. My other half reckoned she could hear a click from the engine bay just once when I turned the key. That had me wondering if it was actually the starter solenoid being stuck.

I messed around cleaning the battery contact and I tried again. Nothing.

I then took the K40 out. I removed and checked all of the fuses. All intact. I recmoved the K40 from its cover and checked all of the solder. The board looked immaculate. I replaced everything and then decided to try and start the car for the hell of it. It started straight away!

Drove it home ten miles then turned it off and tried again to start it. Yet again it fired up with no problems.

Checked the battery and it had dropped from 13.5 volts when it had come off the charger earlier, to 12.7. I checked that again this morning, and it is still 12.7v, so hasn't changed since 8pm last night.

This morning, the car wouldn't start again. Exactly the same, no attempt to crank at all. All electrics working fine.

I'm absolutely baffled.

Haven't got to the fuel filter yet, but it would still try to crank. Fuel in tank is fresh, it was empty when we picked the car up. OH says it drives fine when it's going.

CPS is currently my only hope before this goes to someone else for a potentially expensive diagnosis! Only other thing I can think is that the immobiliser is nuts.
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#7 Old 05-23-2014
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Originally Posted by jbanks15 View Post
as above, your keyfob. did you remove or check the battery in it? maybe the transponder has been jiggled out of position?
No, but it unlocks and locks the car remotely, so doubtful?

How can I open the key and check the transponder is in the right place? I wasn't aware they had to be in a particular position, so long as they are still there inside the key?
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not the expert but the transponder (little chip) is what starts the car
and there is a similar post where the poster changed battery and misplaced the transponder

edit: the thread also has a pic of the transponder. search curro101 as he posted the pic


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#9 Old 05-23-2014
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here it is

start error


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#10 Old 05-23-2014
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Cheers. His car is giving him the "start error" message though, mine is not doing that. The key starts the car sometimes so surely the transponder is fine? I'm confused....
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#11 Old 05-23-2014
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pop the cover and look at the position of your transponder and test the fob battery? you saw the pic of the transponder, right?
only one keyfob i assume


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#12 Old 05-23-2014
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I'm still thinking battery. Did you put a volt meter on it when you were cranking or trying to crank the engine? If you try to crank the engine and your voltage drops significantly, like to 8 volts or lower (8 volts) isn't even good, then you may have a shorted cell. Also check what the voltage is when it's running too. It should be above 14 if you're regulator/alternator is is charging back correctly. I've seen batteries act screwy before. again, check voltage pre-crank, when cranking, and after started. It nothing there, it would be nice to get a "borrowed" K40 to swap out, to test that. You've mentioned twice it was fine after removal and re installation. That or maybe something around the wire bundles connecting to the K40.


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#13 Old 05-23-2014
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I'll certainly do the voltage tests you suggest and see what results that yields.
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Originally Posted by jbanks15 View Post
pop the cover and look at the position of your transponder and test the fob battery? you saw the pic of the transponder, right?
only one keyfob i assume
Yeah seen it now. I will check the transponder is where it should be. Fob batteries fine else it wouldn't remote lock and unlock the car.
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#15 Old 05-23-2014
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Elliminate the car battery first its the heart of everything !!

Borrow a good car battery from a spare vehicle and see if the car does same symptoms etc

If exactly the same look elsewhere .

Sort out car battery !
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#16 Old 05-23-2014
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Elliminate the car battery first its the heart of everything !!

Borrow a good car battery from a spare vehicle and see if the car does same symptoms etc

If exactly the same look elsewhere .

Sort out car battery !
I'm going to do the voltage tests that fastdawg1 suggested. Not sold on the battery being at fault but willing to test it for the purpose of elimination.

I don't have another battery to try of the same sort of size and spec. I did fully charge this battery to 100% charge yesterday so hopefully those voltage readings will be sufficient to get some answers.
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#17 Old 05-23-2014
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Originally Posted by Jay Cartay View Post
I'm going to do the voltage tests that fastdawg1 suggested. Not sold on the battery being at fault but willing to test it for the purpose of elimination.

I don't have another battery to try of the same sort of size and spec. I did fully charge this battery to 100% charge yesterday so hopefully those voltage readings will be sufficient to get some answers.
Any battery will do providing same terminals and is about the right size and fit .
And it is a good one .
Its just to see if the same fault occurs !

You may have a faulty cell or cells in your battery .
Left over time it can have enough energy stored to start again etc .
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#18 Old 05-23-2014
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Only one I could use is in our Subaru Impreza and to be honest I really don't want to disconnect that in case it causes any silly problems.

I will if I have to, but I am so sure this is not a battery issue. This is a brand new Bosch S4 battery. It should be fine. It charged up fine and we have a smart charger which tells you if the battery is damaged etc. so that would have told me that the battery was defective.

Had I not had that charger, then I wouldn't be so sure.
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#19 Old 05-23-2014
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I'd start by checking the voltage at the starter. My interpretation of the wiring diagram is that there's supposed to be a permanent 12v supply from the battery to the starter plus a 'switched' 12v supply which operates a relay in the starter when you turn the key. If you have the permanent supply but zero volts on the switched supply when you turn the key you'll need to look further back; starter lockout relay module maybe, and what that is operated by. If you get the switched supply when you turn the key then it sounds like the starter (or the relay in it).
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#20 Old 05-24-2014
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Yeah that's also worth checking. Where us the starter located on this car?
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