SLK 230 Hydraulic Roof actuator repair - Page 5 - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum
SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

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#81 Old 04-04-2013
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Red face I don't want a permanent coupe!

Can someone help me find a way to raise the roof manually (R170) as mine is jammed. Pump works and fluid level is correct. LHS of trunk rises 2 inches and that's it. Replaced RHS trunk ram thinking this was the problem.
Also can I rebuild the main rams just from the trunk (in it's normal open position) without lowering the roof?
My user manual only describes how to raise the roof in an emergency. Thanks in advance to anyone with ideas. Cheers from AUS
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#82 Old 04-05-2013
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Permanent convertible

Check the micro switches located on both sides of the front windshield and in the trunk at the latch and inside of the wheelwell panels. Mine were out of sinc and by just cycling them I got the trunk to raise and the roof to go back into position. If you manually raise the roof, you will not be able to get the back side windows to go up. Check the micro switches.
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#83 Old 04-06-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoryJ8171 View Post
Check the micro switches located on both sides of the front windshield and in the trunk at the latch and inside of the wheelwell panels. Mine were out of sinc and by just cycling them I got the trunk to raise and the roof to go back into position. If you manually raise the roof, you will not be able to get the back side windows to go up. Check the micro switches.
Hi Rory, I'm really grateful for your help but you must understand that my issue is not raising the roof but LOWERING it! All 4 windows work fine but after that, the trunk raises slightly on just the LHS and the pump keeps running on until I let the switch go. I simply cannot get to anything until I get to lower this roof. If interlock switches were faulty would this action even start at the first instance? I don't think there is an emergency procedure to lower the roof in the manual? So I'm not even sure if I need a rebuild kit if I can't look closely at the 3 front rams let alone service them. I need more info before i take any more risks. Cheers...
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#84 Old 04-06-2013
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Your answer is here Vario roof diagnostics & troubleshooting It sounds like Defect #9
Here is where all the switches etc are Vario Roof Operation.


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#85 Old 04-07-2013
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Originally Posted by leapyfish View Post
Your answer is here Vario roof diagnostics & troubleshooting It sounds like Defect #9
Here is where all the switches etc are Vario Roof Operation.
Hey Thanks.... but my problem was not mentioned in any of the diagnostics.I did in fact fix my jamming top. I Google'd the problem and got more clues. What had happened was that the cable had come off trunk ram as strangely enough the tang had bent and released it. Now being a rookie with the knowledge of how all the roof works I noticed the bent tang when I removed it but took no notice as I thought it may have been bent by someone before.I simply replaced the ram with a good used one and still the jammed roof persisted. I should never assume.....got two spare trunk rams for sale if anyone needs them! Anyway I realized after studying up that it moves a cable and went looking for it in the 'black hole' It's not a nice place down there especially when you can't move the plastics too far. It's refitted now and works perfect without any straining but I will do a full lube shortly just in case. Thanks everyone for listening to my frustrations but I had a hunch it was mechanical. This cable is not mentioned very much and must be a 'rare' fault. Still I'm suspicious that it may be quite stiff or something else caused the tang to bend out and release the 'end stopper' I'll report if I find more. Cheers... Barry
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#86 Old 04-07-2013
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Did you take any Pictures?
Or,
Could you take some pictures of were the problem was.


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#87 Old 04-08-2013
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I put mine altogether without the pics as I was anxious to celebrate! However took some snips from my history to explain. My cable did not break like this one shows. I din't realize that the cable is part of the manual release system.

I've used Picassa if that's OK. You may have to copy and paste to a new window to look at them. If no success I'll sign up for image shack. Cheers....

https://plus.google.com/photos/11498...PCz8Z7l9om43QE

https://plus.google.com/photos/11498...PCz8Z7l9om43QE

https://plus.google.com/photos/11498...PCz8Z7l9om43QE
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#88 Old 06-12-2013
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I just noticed the seal kits are no longer listed on ebay.
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#89 Old 06-12-2013
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Maybe he just forgot to relist it???
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#90 Old 06-13-2013
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Maybe he just forgot to relist it???
I hope so...

He has other items listed. I've sent him a msg re the SLK seal kit. No reply as of today.

I can buy the seals locally but I'd like to have the instructions he provided plus support his effort of putting it all together.

Hoping it gives me a clear idea of how to open the top manually and supporting it.
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#91 Old 06-21-2013
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It's back on ebay but I am having no luck getting a reply from the seller.

I ordered and paid for the cylinder rebuild kit last week in hopes to work on the top this weekend. However, I have yet to receive shipping, tracking info.

Anyone else have any dealings with this seller?
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#92 Old 06-22-2013
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Yes, I have been investigating repair for my roof. Last year I saw an awesome video on the forum - showing in detail with explanation of how to replace seals with o-rings. I've found others, but can't seem to locate this very special video. I wish I could remember the name of the contributor. Lots of great knowledge from everyone.
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#93 Old 08-20-2013
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/281121660229...84.m1497.l2649

I just bought them last week, shipped in 3 days, installed in 3 hours, happy roof again no leaks =)
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#94 Old 08-25-2013
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Is there a trick to getting the limit switch (s69/11) off of the passenger side? It's blocking the pin so I can remove the actuator. The directions from Shockwave mention that it's a pain but don't give any specifics.

I'm about to just try to replace the seals with the actuator in place.
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#95 Old 08-25-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_R View Post
Is there a trick to getting the limit switch (s69/11) off of the passenger side? It's blocking the pin so I can remove the actuator. The directions from Shockwave mention that it's a pain but don't give any specifics.

I'm about to just try to replace the seals with the actuator in place.
Are you talking about top side passenger cylinder?
I don't think you can replace seals on the cylinder without removing it. Since you need vise to unscrew the rod...
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#96 Old 08-25-2013
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Thanks Jayson, you're right. I managed to get the switch out... by breaking it. Glued and double-sided tape to the rescue!

Top is all fixed (again) now.
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#97 Old 09-11-2013
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Originally Posted by Chris_R View Post
Thanks Jayson, you're right. I managed to get the switch out... by breaking it. Glued and double-sided tape to the rescue!

Top is all fixed (again) now.
If anyone else is looking to remove this switch without breaking it, here is a photo of the switch mounting tabs. I used a small screwdriver to pry the top first about 1/16" and then went to the bottom and did the same. Then back and forth until it popped off. Patience is key here.

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#98 Old 10-19-2013
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MB SLK230 Rear Left Hydraulic Repair Seal for Roof

Hey all, sorry it has been awhile posting on SLKWorld! I just recently had both of my rear hydraulic actuators leak in the rear of my 2000 MB SLK230 and I decided to tackle seal replacement on one first then the other today since I had the seals on hand when replacing the front actuator last year. I didn't get pictures from the first seal replacement but I did from the driver's side actuator. I used the online photos from
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...guide-cut.html
to give it a go since the instructions I had did not cover the rear when I ordered the seals.

I actually did it while installed in the car out of the trunk since I didn't want to completely remove it.

I used a .140 drill bit to drill out the top 5 dipples but only to the collar groove so you can have enough room to punch out the collar. I used a 13mm and 16mm wrenches to remove the end of the shaft nut and hinge u-pin. Then I used a small punch and old dental tool to get the collar out enough so I could put a vise grips on it and remove it. I had to file off the vise grip tool marks but since it is so high on the shaft it won’t hurt anything. I had a hard time digging out the old seal then removing the collar. Once you remove the seal, you need to blow out the area very very well before putting new seal in. I ended tapping the holes with a 8-32 tap bit so I could put set screws in it to hold the collar somewhat in place. Only time will tell if that will work versus using wire in the holes to hold it. I cleaned up the area, used pump hydraulic fluid I lubed up the seal and top of shaft. Placed seal in and then slid the collar in lining up the holes. Using a socket I tapped the collar back in place and screwed in the set screws. I was only able to get 4 in but I know after testing it, the collar stays in and no leak!!
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#99 Old 10-19-2013
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MB SLK230 Rear Left Hydraulic Repair Seal for Roof pics

Pics for the post I did earlier for replacing rear actuator seal!
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File Type: jpg MB Rear Left Acuator (01).jpg (79.9 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg MB Rear Left Acuator (04).jpg (47.4 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg MB Rear Left Acuator (09).jpg (64.1 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg MB Rear Left Acuator (07).jpg (53.9 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg MB Rear Left Acuator (12).jpg (68.3 KB, 20 views)
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#100 Old 10-24-2013
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Repaired the drivers side roof actuator last night. Bought o-rings on e-bay for $34 with directions. Drove to work this morning with the top down. It was not too hard. I did have to drill through the actuator to remove the c shaped ring holding the actuator guts together. Once I got over the fear of drilling into the actuator, it was easy and a quick repair.
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