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Performance MODS for the R171 How to make your SLK perform better

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Old 09-01-2006   #1 (permalink)
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Default weight of slk55

Hey guys, i just weighed my car yesterday, it weighs 3372.2 lbs.

I got this by deducting 50.8 lbs for about half tank of gas(8 gallons*6.35 lbs for 91 gas) from 3423 lbs (total weight).

Anyone else weighed their car? i think i'm going to take out the spare tire, and i'm looking for lightweight wheels. i'm looking at lighter batteries too.

All i had in the car are all the accesories that came with the car, and maybe 3-5 lbs for junk that i have in the car (flashlight, backup IDs, insurance card, spare change, bottle of water).

BTW, anyone weigh the stock SLK55 wheels yet (i'll probably do this this weekend if i get no responses)? anyone know how they compare to aftermarket wheels?
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Old 09-01-2006   #2 (permalink)
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Dan is our resident weight watcher. Plus awesome guru in many other fields. See his post on Carbon fibre Roof, He has removed sound proofing and replaced the rear screen with a plastic version. Very interesting read here

his weight before the mods came out as 1560 kg or 3432 lbs
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Old 09-01-2006   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks easty, i've been following up on that thread, but Dan is approaching it with a full track car/high dollar approach. I'm looking to keep the car pretty much as is. I was also wondering if anyone else has weighed the car. Was Dan's weight with full tank of gas or empty?
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Old 09-01-2006   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the shout out easty mate .

cyberdrakon,
When it comes to removing weight under the hood is the best place to work the sound proofing under the hood itself is real heavy so that would be a good place to start it just clips on so it comes off in like 5 minutes.

Not sure about the weight of the wheels i would bet that they weigh more than most aftermarket wheels do but by how much i don't know, also lose the spare that will make a difference and any other stuff you may have just sitting around in the car it all adds up.

With the battery it is heavy as hell so replacing it will make a real difference these are all things you can do that if need be you can swap back without difficulty unfortunately there is a lot of weight to be saved on sound proofing and various other components that don't really serve any purpose and can be removed and not replaced but they require dis-assembly of the car and then the problem is not so much cost but re-installation of the different parts becomes a nightmare.

I guess this weight reduction effort is in attempt to make the car quicker thats what the normal cause of it seems to be if so things like new air filters make a difference also and again can be quickly swapped back should the need arise.

Hope this helps a little and my car had a full tank of gas i did not deduct its weight from the final reading as i was measuring it using the same standard as MB for comparison with the published specs.

Cheers
Dan
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Old 09-01-2006   #5 (permalink)
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Is that just sound proofing under the hood/bonet or doe it protect it from the heat aswell?
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Old 09-01-2006   #6 (permalink)
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It's sound proofing i have had mine removed for ages now and the car has been OK the hood gets a little warmer obviously but not by much.

The heat generated is more of a problem for the airbox cover to deal with and it works kind of like a radiator so there is never one hot spot.
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Old 09-01-2006   #7 (permalink)
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cool mines coming off today. I love engine noise anyhow.
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Old 09-01-2006   #8 (permalink)
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Its just clipped on get a screwdriver or something and just prize the clips out and it was fall out under its own weight just don't let it hit the engine and you will be fine.

Since i mentioned air filters before and since we where talking about them in a previous thread i just want to say quickly without hijacking the thread that Mann make the OEM's so don't buy them to replace the current ones and any performance filters that fit the C55 will do the job just fine since they seem easier to come by.
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Old 09-01-2006   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DansSlk
It's sound proofing i have had mine removed for ages now and the car has been OK the hood gets a little warmer obviously but not by much.

The heat generated is more of a problem for the airbox cover to deal with and it works kind of like a radiator so there is never one hot spot.
With the bonnet/hood sound proofing removed, wouldn't that mean that the heat dissipates sooner as there is no "insulation"? Perhaps it may take a tad longer to warm up the engine during winter months but would be helpful in the tracks especially when the weather is hot, like in Texas, or when the engine is stressed more.

I suspect the change is probably minimal.
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Old 09-01-2006   #10 (permalink)
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Default weight

I posted this on another forum.


Just weighed my baby and it turned in at 3440lbs. I had it weighed where they saw how much it weighed at each corner ... and the guy was pretty impressed. He said that the difference between left side and right side were minimal.

Lets see how much weight savings I can do ... ultimately I'd like it under 3200lbs.

Also any ideas on transferring some of the weight from front to rear? My car showed that it was around 55% front and 45% rear.

This was with about 3/4 tank of gas, if I remember correctly.

Where did you weight it? I had it done at a race shop that was able to show the weight distribution across all 4 corners.
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Old 09-01-2006   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etyu
With the bonnet/hood sound proofing removed, wouldn't that mean that the heat dissipates sooner as there is no "insulation"? Perhaps it may take a tad longer to warm up the engine during winter months but would be helpful in the tracks especially when the weather is hot, like in Texas, or when the engine is stressed more.

I suspect the change is probably minimal.
I guess it would yeah mate but the thing that traps the most heat is the airbox so i think the best way to help heat dissipate sooner would be a different box one with two separate chambers on each bank if possible leaving the top of the engine free from covers so it can breathe more so to speak the only thing with that plan is the hood would be subject to all the engines heat since the radiator effect of the airbox would not be present but to be honest i think if some plastic can stand the heat then the metal can in fact for a while i ran the car with only part of the airbox installed and the hood managed just fine.

As you say the extra cooling effect from removing the sound proofing is most probably minimal the biggest effect it has is on weight but i have never actually tested the warm up / cool down times for my car i might do that sometime so we can compare and see if there is any difference.

jiliu - Removing the weight from the front of the car is in some ways easy and in other real hard the heaviest components are the sound proofing, the airbox and the battery.

The sound proofing is easy just remove it from the car and you have removed the weight without any problems and no cost.

The airbox is a little harder to do as part of my weight reduction scheme i am going to be buying a CF airbox i think that is the best option for people looking to save some weight on the box since it is quite heavy as i said before a custom box with separate chambers would be best i am sure the hood will be fine with the extra heat.

And the battery easy to replace with a lightweight version and remove one heck of a lot of weight but and i only just thought of this when you mentioned L/R distribution replacing the battery would mess that up big style.

Cheers
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Old 09-04-2006   #12 (permalink)
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I weighed my car at a recycling plant. they use a calibrated scale that's accurate down to 1/2 lb, so it's close enough for me. if i get another chance, i'd like to weigh the car half on and half off, to compare l/r, f/r weight distribution.

BTW, i was thinking about that engine cap...does it serve any purpose other than appearance, or can i leave it off?
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Old 09-04-2006   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberdrakon
I weighed my car at a recycling plant. they use a calibrated scale that's accurate down to 1/2 lb, so it's close enough for me. if i get another chance, i'd like to weigh the car half on and half off, to compare l/r, f/r weight distribution.

BTW, i was thinking about that engine cap...does it serve any purpose other than appearance, or can i leave it off?
The front part of the cover can be removed as it it just cosmetic but the part the inlets attach to has to be left connected as it houses the air filters

Hope this helps

Dan
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Old 09-05-2006   #14 (permalink)
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Default not worth it

To remove the front cover ... its light as hell.
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Old 01-06-2008   #15 (permalink)
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Default Lightweight Battery

Hi Guys,
Just picked up on this.
I think the engine on my car is at a (financially) sensible limit with the extensive Carlsson mods.
Weightwise I am still trying to find a way of getting the Black Series 19 inchers.
My question is-lightweight batteries.
What would you recommend?
SLA like Hawker?
What are the pros and cons?
How much weight would I save?
10-20kg maybe?
Cheers
Grigio
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Old 01-06-2008   #16 (permalink)
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I have used Optima before now.

Main bit of advice is make sure the specs match up because the 113 engine really stresses it so if you reduce its capacity your going to keep hitting the under-voltage limiter.

The major con i can see is if you replace the battery its going to throw off your L/R balance and since the other side of the bay has all of the electronics you can't shuffle stuff about to keep it close to even.
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Old 01-07-2008   #17 (permalink)
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Now according to my registration papers,my car weights 1540kg but I've also removed my spare tyre after several months of ownership.
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Old 01-08-2008   #18 (permalink)
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Hi Dan,
Thanks for that.
I have looked at Optima Red Top 4.2 litres. Weight is not that low 17.5 kgs but it does seem to be a good battery versus normal lead acid types.
Which OPtimas have you used?
Cheers
Grigio
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Old 01-08-2008   #19 (permalink)
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Hiya mate,

To be honest pal i'm not sure since i did not order them myself a mate placed the order for me and i just threw them in, sorry.
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