editor58

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Hi Guys:

Yet another Thread about an install. This Wednesday, my local shop and I will be putting in a new Laser Pro Park Jammer and a Bell STI Driver Radar unit. To avoid getting stopped even while driving a few MPH over the limit I decided that the LPP was the ideal unit of choice.

There are some tests of units here:
http://www.guysoflidar.com/

Why I decided on the LPP was simple. Results and Customer Service. The USA Rep at Direct Motor Sport, David, spent almost 40 minutes on the phone with me not even trying to sell me a unit. Having been to the site above and doing my research, I was pretty much sold on this unit anyway. If you are interested, contact David, let him know that "Rob" the guy with the SLK55 sent you, and he may give you a better price, or upgrade you to free 2 day shipping like he did for me. He also included the Cheetah Hard wire kit for inside the Vehicle (more on that later).

David Guyton
dguyton@dmi-sport.com
702.448.7941


Anyway, I purchased a 2 Diode Head kit with a Cheetah Wireless Interface. It allows for no firewall drilling!! It even has an Auto-sensing Power ON feature.
http://www.dmi-sport.com/technology/...less-dual.html

----------------------
Here's the deal:

Since I'm going to do some hardwiring into the cockpit of the SLK55... Where is the best place to pull 12V switched from? I want to put the wireless laser receiver on the Left Driver side pillar. It's small, and an ideal place to have it out of the way, and Where would YOU guys suggest the mounting of the Bet STI Radar Detector. ( I thought if low, center windshield with the cable running along the glass seam at the bottom, OR, Left of the RV Mirror up top. Can switched power be obtained from the overheads? and How?

The reason for asking these questions: The installer has been doing this for over 20 years, BUT has not done an SLK.

I'd love some pre-install input from my friends here, and then when we get into it all, I'll photo shoot the install. Thanks for the help guys!!

-editor (aka-Rob)
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Top Left is the ONLY item in the Vehicle. It's about 3" x 2" and 1/2 and inch thick. You can see the Cig Plug which I won't use. The remaining items are part of the wireless system. (Very Cool)

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noregret4life

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Rob,

There are a few places where you can pull the 12v Switched from, and in my opinion the best place for the radar is to mout it to the top right of the rear view mirror.

1. you can get power by splicing into the cig lighter of either the one under climate control or the one in the pass side footwell.

2. (Best option) since i don't like splicing into any wiring, i think the BEST way is to feed a wire from the fuse box under the hood on the drivers side.

I went into detail for you, but the process only takes about 10-15min. really. So don't be spooked by all the reading below.

The process is very easy and gives you a dedicated fused line without taping any other wires.
1. You purchase an "Add-A-Circuit" $7.00 at Pepboys
2. Take a metal coat hanger, open it up so you make a long rod.
3. under your hood. on the drivers side there is a fuse box, open it up via the metal clip in the front
4. insdie the car, tilt the steering wheel all the way up and the seat all the way back out of your way.
5. remove 3 hex screws on the underside of the drivers foot pannel (looking up) use a flashlight if needed
once the panel is removed it has a clip to the side on the right. just yank on it and it will drop down.

6. now. you need a light. Such as a lamp or flashligh.
- take that flashlight or lamp, and stick it as far up to the left as possible. and jam it in there so it can stay there while you leave the car to go under the hood

7. now, take your open coat hanger. and in parallell tape some of your +12v 16g wire to the hook (do not cut the wire off the spool. just unwind it enough so you have plenty to work with)

8. now, by looking into the fuse box you opened earlier, you will be able to see the light braking through from the interior

"Follow the light" and guide the coat hanger with wire into it and follow as far down as you can. Then leave it sticking out of there, and go into the car and find your wire

let the wire run in length to where you plan to mount the main control unit.

9. now on your drivers side with the door open, on the side where the door meets the car there is another fuse pannel
You will need a flat head screw driver to pry it open (the slot to pry is about in the middle) it will then just pop off or pull it of

there is a fuse box and at the top of the fuse box, there is a little folded piece of paper. look for the fuse for the Cig lighter

10. remember the number and position. you will need to remove that fuse and put the Add a circuit into its spot

11. follow the directions of the add a circuit to insert the stock fuse, and the additional fuse

12. now you can go under the hood install the add a circuit.. replace the original into the add a circuit. cut the wire from the spool length enough to meet with the add a circuit

the fuses that came with it are only 3, 5, 7.5, and 10

Ok so after you connect the wire to the add a circuit you got power! Now you need Ground.

Now. By looking to the side of the door in the drivers side footwell. You will see a little cap cover (near the speaker holes). Oval shape. Use a thin screwdriver to pry it open. Behind will be another Hex screw (Benz uses hex everywhere) Take it off. And then the side panel can be slid and removed.


Behind there you will find a bunch of Brown wires going to a nut on the side. That is your Ground wire.


OK. So now the Radar detector above the mirror. Mine is mounted to the right above the rear view mirror. Best place for K-Ka-X, and easy to wire to.

To run it from the side of the mirror (leave some slack for the connection. To the left side, and down the left panel.


You should be able to tuck the wire in under the panels easy enough without removing anything.


If its too tight. You will need to open the visors, and remove the hex screws holding them to the top. Remove both visors, and now the panel should be looser. If its still tight, pull on the 2 clear lens covovers for the overhead lights. Start from the back there is an opening for your fingers. And pull down. They will both come off. There should be a screw in there that holds the panel up. You can loosen or remove it.

So guide the wire down to the left and down the panel. With the fuse box on the side panel still open you should be able to rig the wire down through that area to your connections below. Connect the ground and the +12 ACC wire you ran from under the hood. And you are done.

See Wiring throught the firewall is not bad at all

-lenny

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nevets

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Lenny.................Amazing.......

mtiede

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Is there some side air bag somewhere in the pillar for him to worry about obstructing with the wire?

editor58

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OMFG... Lenny, I'm just gonna print this and give it to the installer!! You are the MAN!!

Thanks,
Rob

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noregret4life

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Thanks for the kind words.

no air bag to my knowledge, those are located in the door pannels. The pillar is a simple pull off, but there is really no need to even pull it off. when i was wiring my V1, you can simply slide the wire in through the side between the pillar cover and the glass. Then just push the wire inwards.

SRS badges would indicate air bags.

Otherwise, this is a good method to get ACC power and you can get Constant +12v from the fuse box on the drives side (where the fuse map is) Step #9. then just run it to wherever you need it.

Hope this helps wire up all your goodies, be it Radar, jammers, or otherwise.

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Comfort, Lighting • Premium Package • Heating Package • Airscarf • Sport Suspension • MHI Installed • Entertainment Package • Nav
Komfort Variodach Module (Piecha) • Kleyman Puddle Lights • Euro Clear Side Markers • Pirelli PZero Nero • Custom Flipout 7" LCD • w/Rear Camera • Front Nightvision Camera • TV tuner • 250gig Media Drive (movies/pics/music) • Kleyman 3BFM V1.5 (Noregrets Custom Works) • White LED License plate bulbs • Chrome Rear Turn Signals • 50watt Xenon White Reverse Bulbs • 8000K Fog Light HIDs • Full LED conversion:doors, parking, sidemarkers, dome lights
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alroumi

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Imagine MB employed Lenny, look how MB will overtake the likes of Lexus and the other tech junkie cars with the latest advancements.

Lenny your very bright, talented and good with the electronics.

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reallife

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I agree that the optimum location is to the right of the rearview mirror. When I hard wired my V1 I ran the wire across to the right and down the righthand pillar under the panel. There is a big gap and the wire was too loose to stay in place. I bought a package of those door edge guards at PepBoys. You know, those plastic clip on edge gueards. I had to get the thicker ones for truck doors. I cut a piece to snap up into the gap after I placed the wire. It holds the wire up in place, is invisible, and easily adjusted.

I left a few inches of wiring hanging out to make it easy to clip the V1 in and out. That way the V1 lives out of sight when the car is parked. The suction cup clip stays on the windshield but isn't noticeable from outside the car.

I ran the hot wire to the cigarette lighter which I removed when I installed the coin tray in place of the dirty, nasty ashtray. I also got the remote on/off/volume switch and mounted it on the side of the console down out of sight near my right leg. That way I can control the volume without having to reach for the V1.

To make the V1 even more discreet and invisible from other drivers, I also installed the remote LED box in the little cubby that I swapped in place of the crappy drink holder above the NAV screen. To see the screen I just pop open the cubby door. When I park somewhere I just close the cubby door, unsnap the V1 and put it in the glove box.

BTW, for $40 bucks there is a guy in California who will swap the remote LEDs (all red) with colorcoded LEDS that make it much easier to discriminate which type of radar signal you are detecting. You can send him your remote or order a new one directly from him that is already swapped.

I've had my setup for a couple of years now and it works perfectly. I don't speed much myself but it is useful to have a radar detector nonetheless. Several times I've had people pass me at very high speed after my own V1 had alerted me. It is fun to watch them get pulled over a mile or so down the road as I cruise by at the speed limit.

noregret4life

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Thanks!

Just happy i can help.

I love my V1. And am very happy over the last year+ with the top right of rear view mirror location. its out of sight and easy enough to remove if needed.

I am planning on getting one of those remote mute buttons. But just the button from ebay, not the whole V1 sound module. The girlfriend has been complaining about all the alerts around NYC and Brooklyn.

Keep you all posted if i can ever get around to it (new mods for the spring coming)

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editor58

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I thought I'd let you all know that the LPP Laser Jammer has been installed with resounding success. Along with the LJ, we tapped power for the BEL Sti Radar Detector as well. Lenny was Great!! We put the BEL to the right of the RV mirror, and decided to do some other cool things with the Jammer install.

I will be posting a photo essay in the next day or so, showing all the reasons to get one of these, even if you only go a few MPH over the Posted Limit. You ALL know our SLK's stick out like the naked girl at the picnic. Did you know COPS LOVE naked girls... who doesn't?

Happy Valentine's Day! More to come.

-editor

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editor58

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Here are the photos from the install:

This is the Wireless Control Kit. We did not use the lighter power plug, the auto-sensing power module (bottom left) or the white waterproof box. Missing from this photo is the Stealth Node for wireless key-fob shut down.

Now, Let's JAM!!



The LPP Components


For my install, this went into the Relay Box.




-------------------------------------------

The Install Team: Larry from Sound Impressions in Hawthorne, NY, and his sidekick Luis.



This is the auto-power sensor, removed because we went direct to the fuse box.



Inside the fuse/relay box you'll see a long snake we used to get power from the lighter circuit (inside the Cockpit) back out to the outer box. Why? We wanted all the systems run from the lighter circuit so that MB could not say we shouldn't have used the wrong circuit.
In the relay box the LPP controller module was placed to keep it waterproofed. When the relay box cover is placed back on, the LPP Module is sealed and protected, and we didn't have to use the LPP waterproof box.




These are the Jammer Diodes. They get wired back to the LPP Module in the relay box. SIMPLE!


Here's where they are mounted:












We used a Dremmel to slightly enlarge one of the honeycombs in the grill in order to pass the RJ11 connector through the hole.
-----------------------
Checking and leveling the Laser Diode... perfect!



Finished and installed. (NOTE) There is a small white dot on each Jammer. This tells you on which side the wide angle lens is. They get mounted so that the white dots on each module face to the outside of the vehicle.



Each Jammer Head cable was placed in wire loom and run back to the relay box. You can see the loom butts right into the relay box. Tie wraps complete the job. NO cutting of the relay box. The wires simply compress the rubber gasket and go right through. The rear section of the relay box has a lot of room in it, and the LPP Control Module fits in there beautifully.



----------------------

Under the driver side. The Power Control box, and the stealth module are connected together, tie wrapped, and then 12V from the lighter circuit is applied here. ALL 12V power is going to this single point of power. There is only one connection for these as they are daisy chained with locking connectors. The stealth node provides the user with a wireless on/off key fob to completely shut the system off for any desired reason.





Not much to it... but it's the best out there.
The LPP's new 100 Pulse Per Second update gets all the new guns.
----------------

Since we were in the neighborhood, we hardwired the Bel STI



Mounted High and right of the mirror.



---------------------------
Luis is closing up the right side panel where we ran another 12v line for the Bel STI Driver (radar detector) Again, the 12v ran clear through to the left driver foot-well for the single connection point. Replacing this panel is the tough one!!





After all is done, the wireless Audio Node which is your Alarm and Visual warning device gets a small 12v line that was run up the rubber seal and hidden within. The Audio Node is velcro'd to the driver "A" pillar. It's Really Small, yet very loud under alarm conditions! It has a tiny volume control on it and you set it and forget.
I will clean up the velcro... I know!



I hope you have enjoyed shining a 500w bulb back at a 50w ! Basically, this is the analogy. The LPP reaction is IMMEDIATE. Laser is .02 seconds for capture. This device gives them nothing! In default programming, the unit jams for 8 seconds, and then shuts off. In that 8 seconds you have time to adjust your speed or throw out the anchor. When the cop re-targets you he gets another reading of you at your adjusted speed of 55mph. After 60 seconds, the Stealth Node re-arms and you back in business. You can however alter the programming to many different ways.

***A final note here: The LPP and the Cheetah Wireless System are TWO different products DESIGNED TO WORK TOGETHER.

LPP FORUM:
http://www.laserproparkusa.com/forum/

LPP Dealer:
http://www.dmi-sport.com/technology/...less-dual.html

This is the Authorized Dealer, and Dave is VERY responsive. I had his cell number during our install so he could answer any last minute install questions. I called him during our install and immediately got the answer. Good service?? You decide.

-Editor

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noregret4life

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well done. Glad the install went smooth.

just a thought here...

since the Cheetah visual/audio alert module is so small, how about moving it up to the left side of the mirror on the drivers side. opposite the Bel STi
Obviously it depends on how much power cord you have to work with, but i personally like the "all wires tucked away" style... and i have a lot of wires LOL!!!

All you would really have to do is guide it up that pillar same way you ran the power to the STi on the other side... wouldn't even need to take it back to the shop for that (again wire length permitting, and if it is comfortable to reach/see/and ur own personal desire)

Either way... really great job on the mod. Thanks for the pics.

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Komfort Variodach Module (Piecha) • Kleyman Puddle Lights • Euro Clear Side Markers • Pirelli PZero Nero • Custom Flipout 7" LCD • w/Rear Camera • Front Nightvision Camera • TV tuner • 250gig Media Drive (movies/pics/music) • Kleyman 3BFM V1.5 (Noregrets Custom Works) • White LED License plate bulbs • Chrome Rear Turn Signals • 50watt Xenon White Reverse Bulbs • 8000K Fog Light HIDs • Full LED conversion:doors, parking, sidemarkers, dome lights
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DansSlk

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Very nice indeed, looks great

Certainly not trying to pick holes mate but all i might have done different is instead of messing about getting feed's from the lighter back up into the module box i would have lifted that SAM out and connected directly to the lighters feed since its powered from there.

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editor58

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OK: Here's a few thoughts and why's...

I did not want the Audio Node up by the visor: there is a green light that flashes every 15 seconds to indicate the wireless connection is active. If it were up in the visor (and we tried this) it is far enough out of your sight-line to be missed in the event of a failure. I also have the NYS easypass stuck up there so way too much in the visor. I will be tucking the wire under the left "A" pillar cover and coming out the other side. Once I do this, you'll never see the wire. The Audio Node will appear to float on the "A" Pillar.
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Dan: The Switched Lighter Circuit Inside the Cockpit fuse box was just too simple to run the 12v back in there. There are a dozen points to take power, and by doing what we did, there is NO way in HELL MB could say that OUR install could cause ANY potential failure down the road. We thought since all of this amounts to about 1.5 amps (MAYBE), our single power point was the ""Protect My Ass" and warranty"" warm and fuzzy feeling I needed. But Hell Mate, "of course YOU'LL take it apart!" .


Oh and SMART-TOP NEXT~!~

-editor

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DansSlk

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You have a point, if you know the power for that socket comes from inside that box its easy but if you don't taking it from the socket end of the wire is fair enoug