That's a great idea, didn't even think of it. I notice you're in the UK, are you offering to help a fellow member??
I of course would pay for all bills, misc. charges, and make it worth your while (we can discuss this off line). If it's something you can take time to do just let me know otherwise I will post a separate thread and make the request to see what response I get. Thanks either way for making this suggestion.
That's a great idea, didn't even think of it. I notice you're in the UK, are you offering to help a fellow member??
I of course would pay for all bills, misc. charges, and make it worth your while (we can discuss this off line). If it's something you can take time to do just let me know otherwise I will post a separate thread and make the request to see what response I get. Thanks either way for making this suggestion.
PM UK-C200, he may be able to help.
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I regularly follow this forum. I don't post much but I certainly read a lot. I guess that I have much to learn than to teach. It's great!
For months, I've been planning on replacing my 2006 SLK 55 AMG steering wheel with the 2007 one (i.e. the one with the aluminum shift paddles). I've read so many times Aquascape's initial thread but I was always stopped by the top $$ that a new 2007 steering wheel costs in my country (import taxes are very high). I've asked for a few quotations from local MB dealers and they are all above US $ 4,000. A could buy a car, a high mileage beaten up car for that money ... but still an entire car!
I've tried to find the 2007 steering wheel through EBAY but no luck.
I just read Swelsh's and Etyu's comments in regards to members of slkword that are UK based and that could be willing to help others buy the steering wheel in the UK and then to ship it outside the UK?
I had found a company in the UK that was selling the wheel for much cheaper than I could find in the US (even with the exchange rate from GBP to USD) but they wouldn't ship outside the UK. So I worked with a fellow member who was going to purchase for me in the UK after I payed them through Paypal and then they were going to ship to me in the US. I of course would pick up all charges and fees for anything.
I ended up not needing to do this because UK-C200 pointed me in the direction of a US based company that had the wheel even cheaper (I think I paid about $1200 total which is still not cheap but much cheaper than the dealer or anything else I found). Here's the web site I used (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...89&catalogid=0), not sure if this will help you but I hope you understand what was going on a little better.
By the way ... I love the new wheel and paddles. So much better than the buttons in my opinion. And the installation was easy using this thread. Let me know if you have any other questions.
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So just did the upgrade on my '55, and man, I am happy! Thanks to Dan - as usual - for the advice.
Some comments :
1] The 10mm hex bolt in my car was absolutely tighter than 80nm from the factory. I ended up using a 3" extender on a 16" breaker bar. I didn't have a 10mm hex socket, so I picked up a 1/2" chuck short hex socket. I'd stay away from 1/4" - was fortunate that I had 1/2" for everything else.
2] It's trivial to remove the air bag itself, but the wires are a bit short - take your time and be patient, and make sure you understand how to remove the connectors. REMOVE the battery!
3] Since you are removing the battery, make sure you remove the set-screws holding the air bag / switch assembly before disconnecting power. NOTE that these are on retention clips, so they will not come out of the wheel. This way you can unlock the steering wheel and move as necessary to gain access. The "left" side screw is a bit challenging is get to with levers in the way at "straight up".
4] With a 3" extender on a 16" breaker (90 degree), it's much easier to remove the wheel with the top down. I had an extra pair of hands holding the wheel, but I don't think that's 100% required. As I mentioned before, I was worried I'd not be able to break it loose - it was damned tight.
5] MY09 / 030 steering wheel is a bit tighter than the old one to wire up - take your time, and the CAN connections are in a bit different position. The shifter connections are labeled on the back of the air bag, make sure you connect violet to violet.
6] There are alignment points on the new wheel - so it's really trivial to insure that it's installed in the proper orientation.
7] I used Loc-Tite Blue on the threads, and as advised from Dan, put a line across the top edge of the head, so that any movement would be easily noticeable. Torqued to 59 ft/lbs, and called it a day.
All in all, this is probably the best looking mod I've done, and most noticeable - and the new wheel feels great. Even makes getting in and out easier! :-)
I'll probably stop at the stationary shop on the way home today and pick up a fine-line sharpie and color the "UP/DOWN" in black - think that's about all that's left to do!
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i don't think it's possible in SLK...unless it's factory installed
I looked into this and did read about someone who completed this task successfully (I'll try and find the link), think all the connectors are there, just need to update the cars computer via STAR to set it up.
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Hi,
Can you please give us more details about the wiring modifications needed to adapt the new steering wheel on a 2005 SLK 55 AMG (because on my car I do not have the same connectors ...).
Thanks a lot for you help on this matter.
Welcome from Valrico, Florida!
And welcome to this great forum!
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__________________ Jeff, Retired US Army Master Sergeant 2009 SLK 55 AMG Black/Black
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I looked into this and did read about someone who completed this task successfully (I'll try and find the link), think all the connectors are there, just need to update the cars computer via STAR to set it up.
2008 Mercedes Benz SLK 55 AMG (R171.473)
My Black Beauty
2004 Mercedes Benz SLK 350 7G tronic
