Done with the installation, only took 30 minutes, 15 were to look for the torx screwdriver, I need to be more organized. Probably a 10 minute job, easy enough to clean out every six months if the SLK is your daily driver, I'm going to clean it out once a year. I've attached some pics and a quick installation guide for those who are interested.
1. Pic of the back plastic cover, notice the clips, to remove the plastic cover just pull straight up, can't break anything, remember to unlatch the metal clip near the windshield first, start from one corner and move to the next one. Refer to pic above, there are three hose to remove.
2. Remove 4 torx screws with a torx 20x4 screwdriver to get access to the factory filter. Pic of the factory filter, it's flimsy and made of paper, not good, another reason to swap it with a quality one like the green filter.
3. Pic of the dirty residue that's left over, blow it out and clean it before installing the new filter.
4. Pic of the green installed, drop it in and secure it tightly with the screws. Clip it back to the engine.
__________________ 06' SLK 350, Iridium/Ash all pkgs. 6-spd, 19" DCR.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ynot For This Useful Post:
Glad the install went well for you Ynot once its charged go for a drive the computer will adapt to the new airflow readings after a little bit.
Car is fully charged and it starts now but still can't drive it, too much snow still and the roads are too bumpy, my car is too low, it'll hit every bump on the road. It's going to be awhile until I can drive it.
__________________ 06' SLK 350, Iridium/Ash all pkgs. 6-spd, 19" DCR.
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Pewter(cubanite silber)/Beige, PIII package, Airscarf, Hands-Free Communication System, Lighting package Designo Black Leather Cover on e-brake handle, ( To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Bill T), SmartTop v1.0, Kleyman 3BFM (NoRegret Custom), Green Air Filters, Modified R170 ant., Clear sidemarkers & parking lamps w/error-free LEDs, chromed front & rear turn indicator lamps, bilateral rear fog lamps enabled, steel mesh at battery bay cover & cabin air intake.
Not only is there a very small airflow over the engine and the fact that it will tend to breathe in its own exhaust fumes (Especially not good in Ynot's case as his filters are nice and celan), contaminants (Normal by-products of the combustion process) build up when the oil is cold destroying it on a normal startup its not a problem because the oil is quickly brought up to a temp where these are boiled-off so to speak but at idle and especially on a stone cold engine the oil does not heat up very quick and the crap it gets polluted with has sufficient time to start breaking it down.
If you do this warm at a standstill often the oil will break down to the point where its no longer capable of protecting the engine to its specified viscosity rating and the real damage occurs.
Much better to start the car up then if you need to scrape ice from the windshield or whatever go ahead and do that 2/3 minutes wont hurt then drive the car moderately and allow it to come up to temperature while moving if you do a lot of short trips then its a good idea to take the car on a good run every week to get rid of all the crap.
__________________
mmmm, Cars!
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Merc don't tend to print this in the instruction manuals but it is made available in the shop prints.
BMW actually print a warning in the instruction manuals telling you not to allow the engine to idle after a cold start drive it and heat it up that way
thanks for the tip, guess I might have to take it out then, we are expecting another blizzard this week, suppose to be like the first one three weeks ago which we still have snow leftover, the car didn't start again this morning. I'm beginning to think that the first generation CVM drain more battery then expected? Might just leave it alone until all the snow melts, and recharge it when I'm able to drive it.
__________________ 06' SLK 350, Iridium/Ash all pkgs. 6-spd, 19" DCR.
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Do you have a trickle charger? If so why not leave it connected up to the car all the time that way you know its going to start when the time comes to take it out and your not going to have to re-do any stuff like your windows.
No need to drive it if you don't wanna mate just leave the engine off until you are ready and it will be fine its just the sitting at idle to warm up that wont do it any favor's
Do you have a trickle charger? If so why not leave it connected up to the car all the time that way you know its going to start when the time comes to take it out and your not going to have to re-do any stuff like your windows.
No need to drive it if you don't wanna mate just leave the engine off until you are ready and it will be fine its just the sitting at idle to warm up that wont do it any favor's
I have one but lend it to a friend, I need to get it back soon and just let charge.
__________________ 06' SLK 350, Iridium/Ash all pkgs. 6-spd, 19" DCR.
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Ah right OK when you get it back just hook it up to the points on the car not the battery that way if something does go wrong its all fused.
It should be fine with that, connecting a charger is one of the few things i wish it was easier to do like having the points in a wheel well or something so the car can stay sealed up
I'm not sure which will help performance more: The added airflow or the removal of half a pound of sand in the air box!
As a true testimate to the airflow of these cars - I also removed some rather large leaves.
Only tricky part of the install in my mind was getting the donut from the airbox back onto the inlet of the intake manifold. I found that seating that first and then lining up the "clips" was much easier.
I'll take it for a spin later tonight to see if there's any butt-dyno results to detect.
... I'm beginning to think that the first generation CVM drain more battery then expected? Might just leave it alone until all the snow melts, and recharge it when I'm able to drive it.
The first generation module does draw power more than the SmartTop module. I've never had such a problem but then it may be because the car is driven almost daily. The longest period between drives was perhaps 4 days.
I believe it may be an issue if you have the car "stored" for winter for more than 4 weeks without a battery tender, plus cold weather decreases the efficiency of the lead-acid batteries.
__________________ Eddy
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Pewter(cubanite silber)/Beige, PIII package, Airscarf, Hands-Free Communication System, Lighting package Designo Black Leather Cover on e-brake handle, ( To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Bill T), SmartTop v1.0, Kleyman 3BFM (NoRegret Custom), Green Air Filters, Modified R170 ant., Clear sidemarkers & parking lamps w/error-free LEDs, chromed front & rear turn indicator lamps, bilateral rear fog lamps enabled, steel mesh at battery bay cover & cabin air intake.