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Old 07-03-2008   #21 (permalink)
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i toss my hats in a black cloth sack and toss it under/behind the seat along with a small box of tissues. Keeps the car looking cleaner that way as you can see neither item normally. Should work especially well since you said your wife sits so far up?
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Old 07-03-2008   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DansSlk View Post
Your either gonna hit the bulkhead and probably cause a small explosion (seriously not joking here, dust and drill heat = very bad) or you will plow into some of those roof control electronics that Woolly has a pic of.

Either way its generally nasty.
Can you elaborate why drilling into titanium would be bad? or is it another alloy?
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Old 07-03-2008   #23 (permalink)
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I believe they said it was magnesium not titanium.
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Old 07-04-2008   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtiede View Post
I believe they said it was magnesium not titanium.
... and as I remember from my school chemistry, magnesium burns like a flare. Also many normally non-combustible materials become explosive in dust form, iron for example. So magnesium dust, plus heat from the drill, plus electric spark in the drill motor ...

On the negative side, you'd lose your car

On the positive, you'd not be around to notice

----

To be realistic, I guess it would cause localised burns to the cabin and your hands, perhaps a flash over to singe your eyebrows?
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Old 07-04-2008   #25 (permalink)
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Thats correct its Magnesium and horrible horrible stuff.
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Old 07-04-2008   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DansSlk View Post
Thats correct its Magnesium and horrible horrible stuff.
I just love Wikipedia for this sort of stuff. Here are chosen excerpts:

Magnesium is a highly flammable metal, but while it is easy to ignite when powdered or shaved into thin strips, it is difficult to ignite in mass or bulk. Once ignited, it is difficult to extinguish, being able to burn in both nitrogen (forming magnesium nitride), and carbon dioxide (forming magnesium oxide and carbon). On burning in air, magnesium produces a brilliant white light. Thus magnesium powder (flash powder) was used as a source of illumination in the early days of photography. Later, magnesium ribbon was used in electrically ignited flash bulbs. Magnesium powder is used in the manufacture of fireworks and marine flares where a brilliant white light is required.

Magnesium metal and alloys are highly flammable in their pure form when molten, as a powder, or in ribbon form. Burning or molten magnesium metal reacts violently with water. Magnesium powder is an explosive hazard. One should wear safety glasses while working with magnesium, and if burning it, these should include a heavy U.V. filter, similar to welding eye protection. The bright white light (including ultraviolet) produced by burning magnesium can permanently damage the retinas of the eyes, similar to welding arc burns.[7]

Water should not be used to extinguish magnesium fires, because it can produce hydrogen which will feed the fire, according to the reaction:[8]

Mg (s) + 2 H2O (g) → Mg(OH)2 (s) + H2 (g)
or in words:
Magnesium (solid) + steam → Magnesium hydroxide (solid) + Hydrogen (gas)

Carbon dioxide fire extinguishers should not be used either, because magnesium can burn in carbon dioxide (forming magnesium oxide, MgO, and carbon).[9] A Class D dry chemical fire extinguisher should be used if available, or else the fire should be covered with sand or magnesium foundry flux. An easy way to put out small metal fires is to place a polyethylene bag filled with dry sand on top of the fire. The heat of the fire will melt the bag and the sand will flow out onto the fire.
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Old 07-04-2008   #27 (permalink)
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Just pull that plastic bag with sand in it out of the glove compartment when the thing catches fire
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Old 07-05-2008   #28 (permalink)
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Please, do not drill a hole in your SLK! As you have not posted a picture of the area where you want a hook (don't worry, I don't know how either), I must guess from your posts where you want the hook. If I am guessing correctly, where you want the hook would not allow enough space between the vertical console and the seat to hang a hat. Plus, Dan is sick, I am sick, and we don't need any more of our good members disabling themselves! Nor do we need any "trashed" SLKs.
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Old 07-05-2008   #29 (permalink)
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Dolebludger,

Thanks for the concern. I gave up on drilling back at post #2

Haven't quite figured out what to do yet, but I may try the adhesive suggested elsewhere.

I will probably take the picture today since the camera battery is now charged.
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Old 07-05-2008   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtiede View Post
Dolebludger,

Thanks for the concern. I gave up on drilling back at post #2

Haven't quite figured out what to do yet, but I may try the adhesive suggested elsewhere.

I will probably take the picture today since the camera battery is now charged.
Mtiede,

I fashioned a small hook using some left-over flat brass material (as a test) but a black coated coat hanger wire will work as there is enough clearance.

This method uses the vertical storage area between the seats at the rear bulkhead. You can have one for each side if so desired. Bend and fashion a coat hanger wire to follow the contours of the lid of the vertical sorage compartment and then a small hook at the outside part. The closed lid will keep the hook in place, and you should be able to hang a hat on it. Hope the above helps. See pix below:



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Old 07-05-2008   #31 (permalink)
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Okay, I finally took a couple of shots. One without a hat on it and one with.




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Old 07-05-2008   #32 (permalink)
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Etyu,

I'll take a look at that possibility. Don't like that that hook would presumably fall off when compartment is opened, but maybe I can do something like that...

I think just finding an adhesive that works would be my leaning...
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Old 07-05-2008   #33 (permalink)
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I see you have the cloth windscreen. You could also sew/stitch the black hook unto the lower fabric border.
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Old 07-05-2008   #34 (permalink)
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There is little doubt that a hook could be secured on the plastic surface involved here with 3M Emblem Adhesive. The surface would have to first be "stripped" of all conditioners, if any have been applied in the life of the car. And, the hook could be removed with 3M Adhesive Remover.

What I don't know is the condition all this would leave the plastic. That is the question!

After all, if the hook were intended to be installed and never removed, JB Weld would do one heck of a job, but the hook could never, ever be removed.
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Old 07-05-2008   #35 (permalink)
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There is little doubt that a hook could be secured on the plastic surface involved here with 3M Emblem Adhesive. The surface would have to first be "stripped" of all conditioners, if any have been applied in the life of the car. And, the hook could be removed with 3M Adhesive Remover.

What I don't know is the condition all this would leave the plastic. That is the question!

After all, if the hook were intended to be installed and never removed, JB Weld would do one heck of a job, but the hook could never, ever be removed.
Just speaking for myself, IF i were to place the hook, I would stick with the 3M Emblem adhesive, as it can be removed later.
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Old 07-06-2008   #36 (permalink)
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Plan to very soon get the OEM windblocker so the mesh screen will hopefully soon be history.
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