goldie

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Hi,
Just got a set of illuminated sills from Starpartz - great guy, local to me. They don't have instructions. The write up here is great, but is a bit vague on exactly where to pick up the supply from on the rear fusebox. Does anybody know? Are the instructions on line anywhere? Is this a plea for help to Dan the sage?

DansSlk

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Does your kits wiring match that shown in the write up on the site?

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goldie

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Dan,
On examination, the kit is actually from the SLK Launch model - which is probably why there are no instructions. I couldn't see a wiring diagram in the write up - just the pictures. The sills are there + wiring loom. The connector is fused and the wires go into a couple of black blocks ( resistors for the LEDs? )

DansSlk

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Oh OK well then you need to take the push fit connection (white i think) to the rear SAM unit in the trunk (it has the fuses on top) and on the right side of the unit is a row of 4/5 sockets each with a different color (if you have a CD changer a black connector might already be installed), you simply push the harness connector down onto the matching color socket then install the fuse but its important here to make sure you align the connector properly when you insert it because they all mesh together and you can break them by not inserting them correctly.

Also you must not insert the fuse until the plates are fully installed otherwise you can destroy the inverters.

To answer your questions from the other thread -

1) See above.
2) They are DC-AC inverters that take the cars 12V DC power and step it up to a few hundred VAC thats why the output wiring has those deadly voltage tags on it, they are solid state but you want to minimize vibration as much as possible and also avoid placing them on insulating foam or wiring because they get hot.

In a dealer install they would be fitted to the wiring tray under the seats, so in your setup its where you think they will be safe but remember to keep that white tag on the crossover between the inverters located in the middle of the car.

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goldie

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Dan,
I've used BMW and Jaguar forums before but this is probably the best I've used, primarily because of your support. It's really good that you take so much of your time up supporting others. Thanks again. In those immortal words "I'll be back!".
Perry
PS.
I've pm'd you on navigation.

goldie

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Dan,
It's late now so I will check to see what colour the connector is- from memory I thought it was just black? Are they all simply live feeds? I am surprised about the inverters - I would have thought they would be low voltage LEDS just requiring resistors, obviously not - I did wonder about the high voltage tags! I presume they will only get hot if the door is left open for a long time and even then won't they be switched off after a predetermined time ( 10/15 minutes? ). How difficult are the seats and the cable tray covers to remove - seems like the best option? Finally, I guess the battery needs disconnecting - is it only a matter of resetting windows and time with all the rest being held in memory?
Regards,
Perry

DansSlk

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Your welcome.

I'm just glad to help my fellow SLK owners and friends.

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DansSlk

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It could be black mate its been a few months since i fitted any and i have a memory like a sieve so if the kickplate connector is black then it must the the CDC connector thats white, they are not all live feeds but again they are all colour coded so you can't get it wrong.

They use EL pads (Zinc Sulfide and Manganese) because they are so thin and they require the high voltages.

The inverters get hot fast so they do need to be kept away from the foam and wiring, the plates do shut off automatically but by that time the inverters are lovely and hot and the shut off is mostly to protect the battery.

To get the seats out is not a huge job, you have the 4 bolts to remove (install to 50Nm) and then you can disconnect the seat and remove it from the car (best done with belt attached) when your doing this you should disconnect the battery because of the airbags.

The cable tray covers are just clipped down but if you peel back the rear wall carpet you will see where the wiring comes in from the boot if you wrap that up in insulation tape and then poke a hole in the cable tray (its just plastic) and use a zip tie to pull the cables tight against the tray you should have enough room to install the inverters without having any contact and you can keep the seats in the car for this.

If you disconnect the battery you need to reset the windows, clock (if no COMAND) and the seats (move all motors to both stops i.e seat right up then seat right down).

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goldie

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Dan,
Bear with me while I describe the supplied loom:
Pass Side - 1. Suply cable, 2 red cables, black block connector, 5 amp fuse. male blade connector.
2. 2 white block connectors - door switch?
3. Sill connector
4. Inverter
Thin connector wire running from pass to driver's side - no tag as you mention. What would be the purpose of that?
Driver's side -Same as pass but no supply wire of course.

So my two mysteries are: Why do you say the tag has to go in the middle - is there some significance here?
I still have'nt grasped the supply location - are you saying it will be a black female slot amongst various other colours.

I'm sorry this is getting long winded but hopefully your reply will be shorter than this!

Perry

DansSlk

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OK mate,

The white connectors are for the door thats correct, you remove the switch toward the outside then connect the plate harness to the switch and the original wiring to the plate harness.

The power supply comes from the Rear SAM so thats on the left hand side of the equipment carrier plate behind the paneling in the boot, on the SAM itself is a row of fuses and relays moving side to side and the SAM is connected to the carrier plate by 2 little clips on the SAM's right hand side between those clips is a row of female connections (possibly 1 or 2 male connectors already fitted) they will all have colour coded paint spots on them you just need to find the one that matches your connector's colour.

The white tag is a locater you might notice as your working around the harnesses various coloured strips of tape the point of them is to make installing new harnesses simple because all you have to do is make sure the tags on the new harness line up with the ones on the old harness and all the connectors will be in the right locations, when we do a dealer install of these we remove the centre console as part of the install and behind that the harness has a white tag on it.

When your installing try to make sure you don't take up too much of the crossover wire's length with your routing so you will have enough spare to get the install done on the passenger side.

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goldie

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Thanks Dan,
Definitely no colour code on the power supply connector. There is however, a spot of purple paint on the driver's side sill connector - perhaps that's the clue! Closer examination of the supply connector reveals the "male" connector is actually one leg of the 5A fuse. I am sure it will all be obvious when I do the install - which will be probably be when I am on holiday in May, work permitting. I've got lots of commitments at the moment but I will examine the SAM when I get a chance, before the install. Thanks once again for all the help.
Perry

DansSlk

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Yeah thats normal mate, just makes for a simpler connector i guess

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kenzed

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Goldie,
I have installed MB illuminated sills in my SLK55AMG - took about 3 hours at a steady pace. There were no fitting instructions with my parts either but I think this is because MB recommends a dealer fit. I simply followed the instructions (available on-line) and completed the install without having to remove the seats. Another point worth mentioning is that you may read it is necessary to remove the centre console to get the cross-over wire from one side of the car to the other. However, I can assure you that by persisting with a length of stiff wire (or similar) to act as a fische it is possible to complete this task with the console in situe. I also read a report from a fellow owner who experienced great difficulty feeding the loom through to the boot space but removing the foam packaging that fills a rather large hole in the panel behind the seats makes this task very easy! I spent quite a lot of time trying to decide how much of the boot lining to remove in order to prepare for the loom to come through but on reflection the loom passed through easily and may have done so without disturbing the boot lining. Suggest you remove that large piece of foam packaging and stuff the fische through to see if you can get the loom through before you disturb the boot lining - you might get a pleasant surprise . A friend / wife can help here by letting you know when the fische starts to appear in the boot space!. Finally, another tip is to ensure all wiring is well taped down before replacing the carpet. Again, another owner discovered an annoying rattle after everything was put back together. Hope this helps... let us know how your install goes...

DansSlk

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Think he's sorted it now mate he used the MB instructions.

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