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Old 07-21-2006   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberdrakon
why not just use a timed relay that flashes a red strobe thrice every time the brake light circuit is activated?
Do you mean an additional strobe light? if thats the case, then i would say not a bad idea... but not very Stock looking.

The module i am looking into is indeed a timed relay. however there are no moving parts like on a relay... all digital

alroumi, as always Thanks for the support!
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Old 07-21-2006   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noregret4life
Do you mean an additional strobe light? if thats the case, then i would say not a bad idea... but not very Stock looking.

The module i am looking into is indeed a timed relay. however there are no moving parts like on a relay... all digital

alroumi, as always Thanks for the support!
No problem noregret , Ive got your back
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Old 07-21-2006   #23 (permalink)
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Another thing to maybe keep in mind. If you somehow add a resistor or something to fool the computer while the lights are blinking, doesn't that mean the computer will also be fooled when the light actually burns out?
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Old 07-21-2006   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtiede
Another thing to maybe keep in mind. If you somehow add a resistor or something to fool the computer while the lights are blinking, doesn't that mean the computer will also be fooled when the light actually burns out?
Yes,this happend to my cousins Volvo which it came with that problem from the factory a few years ago, It wasy annoying
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Old 07-21-2006   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtiede
Another thing to maybe keep in mind. If you somehow add a resistor or something to fool the computer while the lights are blinking, doesn't that mean the computer will also be fooled when the light actually burns out?
It depends if the unit is set up to send current via the resistor while the unit if flashing the bulb and its in the off phase then yes the computer will be fooled but say the unit flashes the light 6 times every 3 applications if the bulb was out you would get a notification every time you braked saying the bulb was out apart from every third application where you would get intermittent warnings followed by a constant one.

It would be impossible to indefinitely fool the computer as adding resistance to the circuit or removing resistance from the circuit will generate warnings the power would have to be switched to the resistor only when the unit had the lights in the off phase.

Hope this makes sense

Dan
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Old 07-21-2006   #26 (permalink)
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Alroumi is our official post whore, and you are our official mod-whore, I'm just an all around whore when it comes to a pretty women. Keep them coming, I enjoy reading all of your creative mod ideas.
LOL, Just noticed this
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Old 07-22-2006   #27 (permalink)
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Dan, You are correct. The Benz lighting system constantly monitors each exterior bulb. Therefore if a resistor is needed, it must be connected at all times.

The 2 thing that make adding a resistor ok, are:
1. LED lights have a huge lifespan, so the chance of it actually burning out is slim unless there is an outside factor, like water or such.
2. Each one of us is so crazy about our cars, we hardly need the lighting computer telling us a bulb is out... we will damn well notice it ourselves

I will be able to provide some feedback tomorrow when i crack open this pandora's box of electronics. Also follow up for the motion sensor will come as well.
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Old 07-22-2006   #28 (permalink)
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Thanks noregret,
Just one query the lighting system monitors increased resistance also so would a permanent resistor in the current not cause problems i.e. the system would behave normally when the light is off but would generate fail messages when the lamp is on because of increased resistance?

It might not matter anyway i was looking in WIS and on document says the stop lamp is monitored but a newer document says that it is not in he loop for the same reason you gave in for number 1 in your last post it might be worth pulling the wire and trying the brakes see if you get an error.
If you don't then you can save adding a resistor to the system it could just cut the power to the lamp and be done with it no extra hassle.

Keep me posted mate hopefully it all goes well for you.

Dan
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Old 07-22-2006   #29 (permalink)
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Noregret, please also include some pix on which screws or pins to remove at the back panel that is attached to the lid, which wires to connect to, etc.,

Thank you for all your modifications.
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Old 07-22-2006   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DansSlk
Thanks noregret,
Just one query the lighting system monitors increased resistance also so would a permanent resistor in the current not cause problems i.e. the system would behave normally when the light is off but would generate fail messages when the lamp is on because of increased resistance?
You have a good point there Dan, however when i installed resistors & LEDs on my CLK320 (w209) i had no problems at all after. I think the system monitors "Under-resistance" but allows a certain degree of over resistance. Obviously we have to think of wiring withstanding it, and so on... but if all else is safe, it should be fine. Also, resistors are sold in various specs. So as long as i use a resistor equal to the original ammount, or perhaps just enough to keep the warning off, then all is well!

If what you say about the 3rd brake light is true in terms of not being monitored as the other 2 brake lights, then this will be cake to mod with a flasher. However i remember reading in the manual there is an error message for the center brake light as well, which would lead me to think it is monitored.

Either way, i can find out once i get it open, but the damn rain here is putting it off.

etyu, camera is still on the fritz, but i can see if i can get a loaner again.

HAHA, maybe i should start my own webpage for mods like Piecha did...

The "Kleyman" modules > Hey that sounds close to Kleeman... maybe we are of the same stock
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Old 07-22-2006   #31 (permalink)
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OK noregret i just checked again and my WIS just says it monitors both but i don't think we have carried out any mods to the system so you are in a better position than me to comment on what degrees of resistance it calls normal as the computer documents don't mention exact numbers and you have first-hand experience.

My manual makes no mention of the third light being monitored neither does the WIS backup-light diagram however another WIS document does say it is monitored but obviously has no backup lamp so i cant be sure maybe my EU version is not monitored and your US one is as you say you will be able to tell when the cover comes off and from experience with harnesses they are normally of high enough quality to withstand extra loads as you say there won't be a massive resistance increase so i would bet that they can handle it alright.

Good luck and nice idea with the web page you would have my support with it mate.

Keep us posted

Dan
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Old 07-22-2006   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noregret4life
etyu, camera is still on the fritz, but i can see if i can get a loaner again.
Thanks in advance for the tutorial pictures. Perhaps a new digital camera should be included in the order list for mods. You can always upload to the car PC via USB.
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Old 07-22-2006   #33 (permalink)
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Well here are the results my friends...

The 3rd brake light is monitored by the lighting computer, and gave me an error when disconnected.

First i checked if the system monitored resistance, or just a closed circuit. Connected a 194-type LED bulb containing 5 LEDs > got a Bulb out warning. System pulses 12v to sense resistance.

Connected a 5w resistor to the circuit along with the 194-type LED bulb... Whalla! no error message.

What this means is that the LED cluster has a built in resistor that i can not get to. The mini harness connects to the 3rd break LED cluster and is very easy to get to from the trunk lid.

So what does all this mean...
If the flasher module continues to draw power while connected, i have a feeling it will provide enough resistance on its own.
If however it does not have enough resistance, then a 5w 12v resistor such as the one i tried will do the trick.

Downside as mentioned earlier is that if the 3rd break light ever actually burned out, the system would not give you an error. (chance of this actually happening is slim to none) and for us SLK crazy people, i think we would notice on our own

I will contact the company, and have them put one together for me... I think hands on testing in this case will be the only way to get it figured out as none of these people have any knowledge how it would react with our lighting computer.
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Old 07-22-2006   #34 (permalink)
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To get to the wiring harness/wiring loom of the third brake light, do you just remove the 5 plastic pins holding the black plastic to the lid?

When everything is figured out, could you post the tutorial? Supplier (web address or phone no.), part no., resistor specifications, etc., Thanks again.
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Old 07-22-2006   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etyu
To get to the wiring harness/wiring loom of the third brake light, do you just remove the 5 plastic pins holding the black plastic to the lid?

When everything is figured out, could you post the tutorial? Supplier (web address or phone no.), part no., resistor specifications, etc., Thanks again.
yep, you just pull out the pins to get to it. Just becareful because the "trunk release" button on the inside of the trunk is connected.

I will post up all the details, part numbers, modules, and so on once i get it all together.
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Old 07-22-2006   #36 (permalink)
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Hey buddy,
Glad you got it sorted it appears the older document is right then i will be sure to send the result to MB.

Just a 5w resistor was all it took i thought it would be a little more than that well done on the testing.

Surely the flasher would just short the connection and bypass the light fixture that would be the simplest option would it not and that would still allow current flow via the module but then these things don't always follow the easy option do they but if the small resistor is all it takes then it does not make a massive difference anyways would the company knock a unit up with the resistor installed to simplify the install further?

Good luck
Dan
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Old 07-23-2006   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DansSlk
Hey buddy,
Glad you got it sorted it appears the older document is right then i will be sure to send the result to MB.

Just a 5w resistor was all it took i thought it would be a little more than that well done on the testing.

Surely the flasher would just short the connection and bypass the light fixture that would be the simplest option would it not and that would still allow current flow via the module but then these things don't always follow the easy option do they but if the small resistor is all it takes then it does not make a massive difference anyways would the company knock a unit up with the resistor installed to simplify the install further?

Good luck
Dan
Yep, 5w is usually all the Benz needs to show enough resistance for the lighting computer.

I doubt they will install one for me, however, as you said it may not need one since the flow of current still continues when the module is connected in-line. If they built this unit with a capasitor so that it continuesly draws power, but flashes depending on timing relays, Then we won't need a resistor at all. So it is a good thing in this testing phase that the module comes without one. I can solder the resistors on for all interested and ship out directly. (international is ok too)

Looks like its time to place an order and take it from there.

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Old 07-23-2006   #38 (permalink)
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Good Luck mate hope it all goes well when the module turns up.

Keep us posted

Dan
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Old 07-23-2006   #39 (permalink)
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Good luckx2. You've at least one very interested person.
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