Just popped a SmartTOP v2 into my '07 SLK280 - Page 4

**etyu** · 05-08-2008

moderators, is this thread worthy of being stickied? (perhaps under general mods R171).

Also noticed at the mods4cars website, they have a SmartTop for the R170 but I didn't dig further to look at the install instructions for the R170.

DansSlk · 05-08-2008

Sounds good mate, stuck.

**WhiteRabbit** · 05-13-2008

MojitoLoco, thank you for the pics. I've installed the piecha module twice and the smartTop module twice. This last time on my 09 SLK 350 and thanks to your pictures was able to release the canbus box cover and canbus tabs without breaking either.

techstar · 05-18-2008

I fitted a module purchased from cabrio-module.de today, took 30 minutes to install and works like a dream.

Nige

**billh556** · 05-18-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by etyu

moderators, is this thread worthy of being stickied? (perhaps under general mods R171).

Also noticed at the mods4cars website, they have a SmartTop for the R170 but I didn't dig further to look at the install instructions for the R170.

How odd of them to remove the R171 instructions... I just printed them out from mods4cars about 3 weeks ago when I got my SmartTop from them. Note to self.... save this stuff when you find it!

**etyu** · 05-19-2008

Link to SmartTop install/instruction manual for the R171 (v1.0 and v3.2): https://www.wit-usa.com/sms/shop/ind...action=manuals

red hood · 07-16-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by etyu

I have the SmartTop version 1. I used to have the original issue Piecha module (gave it to a fellow forum member here in SoCal). I am quite satisfied with both. I "upgraded" to the SmartTop from original issue Piecha first due to curiosity, second because the SmartTop allows roof operation when key is removed/inserted and 2 clicks on the key fob to operate the windows without operating the roof.

Hi, I'm not sure if this question has been asked before, if so, pls be kind and point me to the thread. What other differences are there between the Piecha and the Smart Top roof module?

**etyu** · 07-16-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by red hood

Hi, I'm not sure if this question has been asked before, if so, pls be kind and point me to the thread. What other differences are there between the Piecha and the Smart Top roof module?

IIRC, same supplier, or mods4cars supplies to Piecha.

**WhiteRabbit** · 07-16-2008

If you are thinking about buying one and have an 09 SLK, I would buy it directly from Mods4Cars. They just upgraded the software and other suppliers may be sitting on older stock without the upgrade. This only affects US 2009 SLKs.

**vincent007** · 07-29-2008

I finally bit the bullet and installed the smartTop in my '09 SLK350. It literlly took me under an hour start to finish, which included me reading the instructions

The install went smooth, but I did manage to break one of the canbus cover tabs. They are a bugger to get open. I left all of the options on factory default and set the speed setting to 25mph. I may also set the daytime running lights on with the fogs. Right now I'm just happy that the roof opens and closes the way I think it should from the factory. But I'm most impressed with the fact that ALL of the windows close when the roof closes, especially since the '09 lost this functionality. I never quite understood why the rear windows never closed even with the express up function of the regualr window function. Its not like a child would be sitting in the rear seat

and get their fingers caught. Oh well, I'm loving my car and heading out to enjoy the day.

**jbanks15** · 07-29-2008

My cousin vinny,

Try stopping car, hit the close console button once, shut engine, get out, and watch the top continuing its close cycle and all windows close! you have to change the default settings to:

1=2
2=2
3=2
4=1

i believe by memory that function 1 and 2 control the ignition off part

**ghostdunks** · 07-29-2008

congratulations vinny! bet you had a huge smile on your face when you first tested it and it worked. I know i did

Henryhank · 08-01-2008

ugh -- I wish I found this thread three hours ago!

I just had pretty much the same experience as the OP -- especially the f*#$%ing carpet and the CANBUS cover.

I still can't find the right "red" wire, but I'll try that again tomorrow.

the real problem I have is finding the right CANBUS connector -- the instructions say the third from the right -- but which side is the "right" side? It says to look for a brown/brown+black set in the fourth position, but in my car, neither "fourth" position wires (counting from both side) has brown/brown+black wires. they're all brown, or brown+red. there is one brown/brown+black, but I think it's on the end. So which one is right? Which side of the CANBUS connector is the "front"? Very frustrating.

Needless to say, I haven't gotten it working yet. I'll try again tomorrow or Monday.

**etyu** · 08-02-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henryhank

ugh -- I wish I found this thread three hours ago!

I just had pretty much the same experience as the OP -- especially the f*#$%ing carpet and the CANBUS cover.

I still can't find the right "red" wire, but I'll try that again tomorrow.

the real problem I have is finding the right CANBUS connector -- the instructions say the third from the right -- but which side is the "right" side? It says to look for a brown/brown+black set in the fourth position, but in my car, neither "fourth" position wires (counting from both side) has brown/brown+black wires. they're all brown, or brown+red. there is one brown/brown+black, but I think it's on the end. So which one is right? Which side of the CANBUS connector is the "front"? Very frustrating.

Needless to say, I haven't gotten it working yet. I'll try again tomorrow or Monday.

See post #2 and #3 of this thread.

I'd recommend to use the ATO add-a-circuit (available at Pep Boys, AutoZone and the like) and draw power from the fuse box to avoid the guesswork in finding the right solid red wire. While you're at it, utilize the factory ground near the engine hood/bonnet release lever.

With the CANBUS connector assembly still seated in its place in the wire harness/loom channel. The right side is as you are facing it from the door, it's usually the side that has one or two unused CANBUS connection. If you have version 3 (be it 3.1 or 3.2), the flashing LED will tell you if you're in the correct spot or not.

**UK-C200** · 08-02-2008

Take a look at this image - it may help. It's the "third" from the end that towards the back of the car. Also, I found it MUCH easier to use an "add-a-fuse" or tap rather than crimping into an existing wire....

Henryhank · 08-03-2008

Ok, I need everyone's collective help.

On Friday, I attempted to install the smarttop, but didn't succeed (see previous post). I never could find the +12v red wire (the ground was easy). anyway, I disconnected everything (left only the wire taps in place) and removed the smarttop wire harness and the smarttop itself. I replaced the CARBUS connector to its proper place and closed up everything. I re-installed the plastic runner board, but did not re-install the side panel.

I go out the next morning, and my battery is entirely and totally dead. I had to use the mechanical key to open the car.

Can anyone think of any reason this would have happened? I did try tapping the "other" two red wires in the bundle, but never got +12V from either one. Could I have fried some other component in the car, causing a battery drain?

Or is there possibly a switch that was left open since I didn't replace the side panel?

I haven't yet had a chance to jump start the car (will do now).. but now I'm afraid I damaged something in the car during the attempted installs.

Any ideas would be most appreciated. thanks.

**UK-C200** · 08-03-2008

Hmmm - one of the reasons I hate the "tap" method - too many wire that are red! I suppose it's possible that you left something in the car in an "on" state without realizing it when you tapped the "wrong" red wire, but I've never heard of anyone else having a battery drain issue...

I'd say jump start the puppy, and see if everything is working, specifically the seat heaters, air-scarf, seat adjustments, and windows. Also, I've left the overhead light on in other cars when working on them too late in the evening, so maybe it's something as simple as that.

Good luck, post a follow up and let us know what's happened. I'd also suggest that since you need to drive the car a bit to charge the battery, go grab an "add a circuit" or fuse tap and forget the wire taps!

Also pictures are worth a lot - try posting one of your front canbus connector set since you are having problems finding the right position.

Henryhank · 08-03-2008

Ok, so here's the followup. I had AAA do their battery analysis and jump start the car. The battery and alternator are good. Battery was totally dead. Jump started it, tested all the majors (lights, A/C, radio/NAV), and everything seems to be working normally. Then I shut everything off and turned the motor off. The ammeter read a 5.09A drain on the battery with everything off. On a hunch, I opened and closed the roof, and then repeated the test. This time, the current drain dropped to 1.09A, which is alot less than 5A, but still (I think) too much. So I drove the car around for about 45 minutes to charge the battery, and upon returning home, I shut everything off, and made sure nothing was still on. I locked the car while still inside. Once the lights shut themselves off, I could still hear a very faint motor running (sounded like a hard drive), from the console area -- as if it was coming from the NAV or behind the A/C panel. Whatever that is, I think that's what's draining my battery. I'll find out tomorrow if my battery is dead again.

On the Smarttop issue, now looking at the pics, it's the third POSITION from the right, not the third SET OF WIRES from the right. I wasn't counting the first two "empty" positions. I already have an add-a-circuit here, and I'll use that tomorrow for power, and the right CANBUS position, and I suspect everything will work just right.

But I still think something is not shutting off and draining the battery.

05-08-2008	#61 (permalink)
etyu Founding Member #2 / Ambassador Of Good Will Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Orange County, CA Vehicle: 2008 SLK 55 Posts: 5,279 Country: Thanks: 376 Thanked 277 Times in 168 Posts	moderators, is this thread worthy of being stickied? (perhaps under general mods R171). Also noticed at the mods4cars website, they have a SmartTop for the R170 but I didn't dig further to look at the install instructions for the R170. __________________ *Eddy* To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Pewter/Beige, PIII package, Airscarf, Hands-Free Communication System, Lighting package Designo Black Leather Cover on e-brake handle, ( To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Bill T), SmartTop v1.0, Kleyman 3BFM (NoRegret Custom), Green Air Filters, *Mod. R170 ant.*, EuroClear sidemarkers w/PIAA PlasmaIon lamps, chromed front & rear turn indicator lamps, PIAA SuperPlasmaGTX front parking lamps, bilateral rear fog lamps enabled.

05-08-2008	#62 (permalink)
DansSlk Dude Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Wales Vehicle: 05 B55S (Brabus 6.1 S) Posts: 6,752 Country: Thanks: 96 Thanked 221 Times in 173 Posts	Sounds good mate, stuck. __________________ One thing you will learn with German cars - If it's simple it ain't happening.

05-13-2008	#63 (permalink)
WhiteRabbit Elite SLK World Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Arlington, VA Vehicle: 2009 SLK 350 Posts: 368 Country: Thanks: 80 Thanked 35 Times in 23 Posts	MojitoLoco, thank you for the pics. I've installed the piecha module twice and the smartTop module twice. This last time on my 09 SLK 350 and thanks to your pictures was able to release the canbus box cover and canbus tabs without breaking either. __________________ 2009 SLK 350, Arctic White, Gullwing Red, 7G Automatic, Premium PKG I, Lighting, Heating packages, Auto Climate Control, smartTop roof module v3.22, Clear side-marker lenses.

05-18-2008	#64 (permalink)
techstar SLK World Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Exeter Vehicle: SLK 280 Posts: 2 Country: Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	fitted my first one today I fitted a module purchased from cabrio-module.de today, took 30 minutes to install and works like a dream. Nige

05-19-2008	#66 (permalink)
etyu Founding Member #2 / Ambassador Of Good Will Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Orange County, CA Vehicle: 2008 SLK 55 Posts: 5,279 Country: Thanks: 376 Thanked 277 Times in 168 Posts	Link to SmartTop install/instruction manual for the R171 (v1.0 and v3.2): https://www.wit-usa.com/sms/shop/ind...action=manuals __________________ *Eddy* To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Pewter/Beige, PIII package, Airscarf, Hands-Free Communication System, Lighting package Designo Black Leather Cover on e-brake handle, ( To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Bill T), SmartTop v1.0, Kleyman 3BFM (NoRegret Custom), Green Air Filters, *Mod. R170 ant.*, EuroClear sidemarkers w/PIAA PlasmaIon lamps, chromed front & rear turn indicator lamps, PIAA SuperPlasmaGTX front parking lamps, bilateral rear fog lamps enabled.

07-16-2008	#69 (permalink)
WhiteRabbit Elite SLK World Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Arlington, VA Vehicle: 2009 SLK 350 Posts: 368 Country: Thanks: 80 Thanked 35 Times in 23 Posts	If you are thinking about buying one and have an 09 SLK, I would buy it directly from Mods4Cars. They just upgraded the software and other suppliers may be sitting on older stock without the upgrade. This only affects US 2009 SLKs. __________________ 2009 SLK 350, Arctic White, Gullwing Red, 7G Automatic, Premium PKG I, Lighting, Heating packages, Auto Climate Control, smartTop roof module v3.22, Clear side-marker lenses.

07-29-2008	#70 (permalink)
vincent007 SLK World Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: NY Vehicle: White '09 SLK 350 Other Toys: Honda Valkyrie, Honda Ridgeline Posts: 58 Country: Thanks: 5 Thanked 9 Times in 6 Posts	I finally bit the bullet and installed the smartTop in my '09 SLK350. It literlly took me under an hour start to finish, which included me reading the instructions The install went smooth, but I did manage to break one of the canbus cover tabs. They are a bugger to get open. I left all of the options on factory default and set the speed setting to 25mph. I may also set the daytime running lights on with the fogs. Right now I'm just happy that the roof opens and closes the way I think it should from the factory. But I'm most impressed with the fact that ALL of the windows close when the roof closes, especially since the '09 lost this functionality. I never quite understood why the rear windows never closed even with the express up function of the regualr window function. Its not like a child would be sitting in the rear seat and get their fingers caught. Oh well, I'm loving my car and heading out to enjoy the day. __________________ Vinny 2009 SLK 350, Arctic White, SmartTop roof module v3.22

07-29-2008	#71 (permalink)
jbanks15 Founding Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Valrico, Florida Vehicle: 2009 SLK 55 AMG Posts: 684 Country: Thanks: 8 Thanked 40 Times in 29 Posts	My cousin vinny, Try stopping car, hit the close console button once, shut engine, get out, and watch the top continuing its close cycle and all windows close! you have to change the default settings to: 1=2 2=2 3=2 4=1 i believe by memory that function 1 and 2 control the ignition off part __________________ Jeff 2009 SLK 55 AMG Black/Black Premium 1, Multimedia, Lighting packages Clearshield Protective Film OEM MB Plexiglass Windscreen Eurolight Clear Side Markers Smarttop version 3.22 Kleyman 3rd Brake Light Flashing/Strobing Module V1.5 (Noregrets Custom Works)

07-29-2008	#72 (permalink)
ghostdunks Elite SLK World Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Melbourne, Australia Vehicle: SLK280 Posts: 211 Country: Thanks: 6 Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts	congratulations vinny! bet you had a huge smile on your face when you first tested it and it worked. I know i did

08-01-2008	#73 (permalink)
Henryhank SLK World Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Boston, MA Vehicle: 2005 Capri Blue Sport Pkg Other Toys: 2002 BMW M5, 1981 Delorean DMC-12 (FOR SALE!) Posts: 76 Country: Thanks: 0 Thanked 9 Times in 3 Posts	ugh -- I wish I found this thread three hours ago! I just had pretty much the same experience as the OP -- especially the f*#$%ing carpet and the CANBUS cover. I still can't find the right "red" wire, but I'll try that again tomorrow. the real problem I have is finding the right CANBUS connector -- the instructions say the third from the right -- but which side is the "right" side? It says to look for a brown/brown+black set in the fourth position, but in my car, neither "fourth" position wires (counting from both side) has brown/brown+black wires. they're all brown, or brown+red. there is one brown/brown+black, but I think it's on the end. So which one is right? Which side of the CANBUS connector is the "front"? Very frustrating. Needless to say, I haven't gotten it working yet. I'll try again tomorrow or Monday.

08-03-2008	#76 (permalink)
Henryhank SLK World Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Boston, MA Vehicle: 2005 Capri Blue Sport Pkg Other Toys: 2002 BMW M5, 1981 Delorean DMC-12 (FOR SALE!) Posts: 76 Country: Thanks: 0 Thanked 9 Times in 3 Posts	Ok, I need everyone's collective help. On Friday, I attempted to install the smarttop, but didn't succeed (see previous post). I never could find the +12v red wire (the ground was easy). anyway, I disconnected everything (left only the wire taps in place) and removed the smarttop wire harness and the smarttop itself. I replaced the CARBUS connector to its proper place and closed up everything. I re-installed the plastic runner board, but did not re-install the side panel. I go out the next morning, and my battery is entirely and totally dead. I had to use the mechanical key to open the car. Can anyone think of any reason this would have happened? I did try tapping the "other" two red wires in the bundle, but never got +12V from either one. Could I have fried some other component in the car, causing a battery drain? Or is there possibly a switch that was left open since I didn't replace the side panel? I haven't yet had a chance to jump start the car (will do now).. but now I'm afraid I damaged something in the car during the attempted installs. Any ideas would be most appreciated. thanks.

08-03-2008	#77 (permalink)
UK-C200 Elite SLK World Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: London, UK & Baton Rouge, Louisiana Vehicle: 04 RHD C200K Coupe, 06 LHD SLK-350 Other Toys: Nacra F18 Posts: 576 Country: Thanks: 37 Thanked 124 Times in 78 Posts	Hmmm - one of the reasons I hate the "tap" method - too many wire that are red! I suppose it's possible that you left something in the car in an "on" state without realizing it when you tapped the "wrong" red wire, but I've never heard of anyone else having a battery drain issue... I'd say jump start the puppy, and see if everything is working, specifically the seat heaters, air-scarf, seat adjustments, and windows. Also, I've left the overhead light on in other cars when working on them too late in the evening, so maybe it's something as simple as that. Good luck, post a follow up and let us know what's happened. I'd also suggest that since you need to drive the car a bit to charge the battery, go grab an "add a circuit" or fuse tap and forget the wire taps! Also pictures are worth a lot - try posting one of your front canbus connector set since you are having problems finding the right position.

08-03-2008	#78 (permalink)
Henryhank SLK World Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Boston, MA Vehicle: 2005 Capri Blue Sport Pkg Other Toys: 2002 BMW M5, 1981 Delorean DMC-12 (FOR SALE!) Posts: 76 Country: Thanks: 0 Thanked 9 Times in 3 Posts	Ok, so here's the followup. I had AAA do their battery analysis and jump start the car. The battery and alternator are good. Battery was totally dead. Jump started it, tested all the majors (lights, A/C, radio/NAV), and everything seems to be working normally. Then I shut everything off and turned the motor off. The ammeter read a 5.09A drain on the battery with everything off. On a hunch, I opened and closed the roof, and then repeated the test. This time, the current drain dropped to 1.09A, which is alot less than 5A, but still (I think) too much. So I drove the car around for about 45 minutes to charge the battery, and upon returning home, I shut everything off, and made sure nothing was still on. I locked the car while still inside. Once the lights shut themselves off, I could still hear a very faint motor running (sounded like a hard drive), from the console area -- as if it was coming from the NAV or behind the A/C panel. Whatever that is, I think that's what's draining my battery. I'll find out tomorrow if my battery is dead again. On the Smarttop issue, now looking at the pics, it's the third POSITION from the right, not the third SET OF WIRES from the right. I wasn't counting the first two "empty" positions. I already have an add-a-circuit here, and I'll use that tomorrow for power, and the right CANBUS position, and I suspect everything will work just right. But I still think something is not shutting off and draining the battery.