clear front marker lenses

V8SLK · 04-20-2007

thanks to my good friend Oscar (320slk). he recently put a set of the clear front marker lenses on his car. they looked great so i told him that i was interested in some for my car. well, i saw Oscar about a week later and he had a set for me. he wouldn't accept payment for them, instead i owe him a drink.

so tonight when i got home from work, i went to install them. i started on the driver's side. i used a nifty little plastic wedge to try to get to the plastic latch and get the stock lens off. well, i actually broke the orange lens. that's ok, it's getting replaced anyway. well as i'm struggling to get it off and making up a few new words, i notice what looks like the threaded end of a screw holding the main unit in. SOOOO, to get behind the fender, i had to take off the plastic piece that runs under the front of the motor. i jack the car up, and sure enough, there are two torx head screws holding the unit in. with a little twisting i was able to get the rear screw out. i can see the front screw, but there's a bracket that prevents me from getting any type of tool in to get it out. well, i made up some more cuss words. i don't know how it happened, but i had a pretty damned good idea (i'm allowed 1 per year). i took my little dremel tool and was able to cut a slot in the screw allowing me to use a screwdriver from the outside and get the screw out. i put the new lens in, using just one screw to hold it in.

now, over to the passenger side. CRAP! i can barley even see the screws on this side. so now, i have to remove the plastic from the inside of the wheel well. OK, so now i can get to the rear screw. i get it out and try the same process with the front screw. CRAPPPPP! i guess i didn't center my cut enough, 'cuz when i tried to unscrew it, one side snapped off. well, i took the dremel and scored the main unit. i broke it in two and was able to wiggle it out.

a few more new words while buttoning things back up... some of the screw holes on the plastic piece under the motor were hard to line up.

almost two and a half hours later, the lights work and the clear lenses look great.

thanks Oscar!

**-1-** · 04-20-2007

I plan to replace mine. I figured removing the the plastic wheel liner would allow full access. Now I realize it's going to be more difficult. Anyone else with additional tips for ease of replacement?. What color bulb is recommended? The standard bulb, chrome? Again would appreciate some tips on bulbs. Last item, has anyone replaced their standard factory D2S 4100K xenons bulbs for something different, such as 6000K? I'm looking at the following. Comments?

PHILIPS Ultinon 6000K D2S Xenon Bulb

This is the BEST Xenon Bulb on the market. Providing the best lumen and color combination. Don't be fooled by the higher Kelvin rating Xenon Bulbs. They are very weak when comes to light output. This Xenon bulb is for Projector Headlights. It comes with One Year Limited Warranty. This listing is for a pair of Philips Ultinon 6000K D2S Xenon Bulb. MADE IN GERMANY.

The Ultinon family of automotive discharge lamps was introduced by Philips to meet the significant aftermarket demand for head lighting units having a 6000K color temperature, higher than the standard 4100K type. The 4100K lamps can produce headlight beams of distinctly different colors depending on the design of the optical system into which they are incorporated. Many HID headlights now employ projection lens systems which capture all light from the lamp, thoroughly homogenize it, and then project a uniform color beam out through a mask and lens. Color variation from one projection system to another is minimal, the only difference sometimes occurring around the edge of the beam where chromatic aberrations from imperfect lenses may give the beam a purple colored lining.
However with 4100K lamps in reflector style headlights, the beam will often be found to have a yellow or green color in the upper areas. The light here originates from the lower portion of the reflector. Light hitting that part of the reflector must pass through the lower half of the arc tube in which the pool of yellow-colored molten metal halide salts resides, and much of the blue light is therefore filtered out in this area.
This greenish-yellow tinge is considered to be most unsightly in the aftermarket, a bluer light being strongly preferred. To satisfy this market Philips introduced this higher color temperature 6000K lamp whose dose contains indium iodide to create extra blue light

**Ynot** · 04-20-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by -1-

I plan to replace mine. I figured removing the the plastic wheel liner would allow full access. Now I realize it's going to be more difficult. Anyone else with additional tips for ease of replacement?. What color bulb is recommended? The standard bulb, chrome? Again would appreciate some tips on bulbs. Last item, has anyone replaced their standard factory D2S 4100K xenons bulbs for something different, such as 6000K? I'm looking at the following. Comments?

Search benzworld.org, there were many good tips, look in fgwinn's gallery over there, he has some pics. http://www.benzworld.org/gallery/sho...714/ppuser/313

courtesty of fgwinn

From what I could remember it wasn't a hard install, turn you wheel all the way to one side to give yourself some room to work with. Take out five screws that holds the plastic in the wheel well to get access to the blinkers. Reach in with torx screwdriver. I don't remember the rest.

chwillia · 04-20-2007

I believe read on an earlier thread that it was alot easier to install on the non-AMG versions, thats why I haven't done it. Plus stories like V8SLK's above....

Heres a store that offers a package deal for $89.95.
http://www.stealthauto.com/Store/Pro...uctid=MBE-1000

chwillia · 04-20-2007

The stealth bulbs look silver but blink orange. There are other brands also.

**-1-** · 05-13-2007

I just installed the clear marker lights and made two additional mods to my SLK 55. I've provided some information to ease the iinstallation of the clear marker lights on a SLK 55. I also replaced the stock Philips D2S 4300k HID bulbs with Philips D2s 5000k. Here's the specs:

5000K Philips 85122+ D2S Bulb Detail

Manufacturer
Philips Lighting
Lamp Voltage
85 Volts
Lamp Power
35 Watts
Luminous Flux & Efficacy
3,400 lm
Colour Temperature
5,000K
Rated Life

3,000 hours

I also replaced the stock fog light bulbs with some 5000k halogen bulbs to better match the color of the xenon HIDs. I had ordered 9006, 6000k bulbs and was surprised to find that the factory bulbs for the SLK 55 fog lights are in fact H7 bulbs. Last, I replaced the front amber marker lenses with the clear lenses.

I waited until I had all the pieces to do everything at once. First step was to jack the front right and remove the tire, and then the front section of the wheel well liner. That provided access to the rear of the headlight and the side marker lens. Everything WAS a problem. Removing the HID was a snap, replacing was just as quick. I couldn't get the ignitor to attach to the rear of the HID light. Finally figured out (by accident) with the electrical connector remove, it goes on without a problem. Next item, removal of the amber light lens. As V8SLK stated, access is difficult. There are two bolts attaching the two sections of the front fender together.

Right side -

I

I removed those two bolts and it allowed me to flex the fender outward and provided better access to remove the two screws attaching the lens. Removal and installation went quickly. I ordered the lenses complete with the chrome (orange light) bulbs and switched them out. Last item was removing and reinstalling the right fog light bulb. The SLK 55 has a large oil cooler behind the right fog light and access is zero.

I had to physically remove the right fog light from the front to change the bulb. Again, the fog light bulb is H7. Re installation of the front wheel well liner is simple, but challenging. I've done it several times on my wife's SLK and it still a challenge to install. I felt confident after doing the right side and moved to the left. The left side was super easy. Installation of the HID bulb took several minutes. Same process to replace the amber lens, removing the two bolts attaching the two fender pieces. Without the oil cooler, I had complete access to the back of the left fog light and was able to change the bulb without removing the assembly.

Left side -

Final observations. Not much difference in the HIDs. I checked last night with one side complete. New HIDs have a slight light blue tint which I like. The H7 5000k fog lights match the HIDs closely. Factory fog lights are too yellow. I really like the clear marker lenses. The really look good in clear and with the chrome bulbs, they burn amber and look the same as the stock lens at night. I enjoy these type of mods, but I hate disassembling my vehicles for any reason.

BIG azz brakes-

I

Got a BIG dose of those BIG azz SLK 55 brakes, they're beautiful. Due to weather, I hadn't driven my SLK 55 in almost two weeks. Cool evening, 66 degrees, top down, went for a spin. I love this car!

DansSlk · 05-13-2007

Nice job mate!

The oil cooler is a PITA to work around and makes any work to that side of the cars a hated job.

Remember the torque settings for the alloys!

**etyu** · 05-13-2007

Excellent work -1-.

Do you have pix on which bolts to remove the front wheel well cover? Do you have to remove the front wheels just to access the side markers? (I realize you were going to work on the HID and fog lamps) Or can one just flex out the fender and be able to gain access to the front screws that hold the side marker?

Are these the bolts (yellow arrows) to remove so you can flex the front fender plastic to reach and remove the front screw of the side marker?

In the 280, the side marker has no front screw to remove, only the rear. After removing the rear screw the side marker can be removed like opening a bivalve with the hinge up front.

**-1-** · 05-13-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by DansSlk

Nice job mate!

The oil cooler is a PITA to work around and makes any work to that side of the cars a hated job.

Remember the torque settings for the alloys!

Dan, thanks for setting me straight. Sure looks like a intercooler. Just couldn't figure out were they put the turbo charger. I should have known better.

**-1-** · 05-13-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by etyu

Are these the bolts (yellow arrows) to remove so you can flex the front fender plastic to reach and remove the front screw of the side marker?

In the 280, the side marker has no front screw to remove, only the rear. After removing the rear screw the side marker can be removed like opening a bivalve with the hinge up front.

Eddy, correct, those are the bolts. As with everything, once you've done something, it's simple.

DansSlk · 05-13-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by -1-

Dan, thanks for setting me straight. Sure looks like a intercooler. Just couldn't figure out were they put the turbo charger. I should have known better.

No worries mate, It gets just as hot as an intercooler as does the pipework its been the source of a few nasty burns.

Just another reason why working on a cold car is so much easier also the source of an easy cooling mod a fan for it and an additional one can be added on the other side easy to help keep the oil a little cooler.

**webslinger** · 05-31-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by DansSlk

... also the source of an easy cooling mod a fan for it and an additional one can be added on the other side easy to help keep the oil a little cooler.

I wonder where you'd get a fan to install on/around that oil cooler...

**etyu** · 09-21-2007

Just an update: on the 2008 SLK 55, fortunately there is ONLY ONE torx screw (located to the rear) holding the 2 halves of the bumper sidemarker (US model) together. This makes it easier to change from OEM to the clear sidemarkers.

The aforementioned Torx screw should be shortened by 1/2 cm using a motor tool if you're using the aluminum foil method to cover the 3 holes. Shortening the screw will prevent it from pushing the aluminum foil outward and still allow good closure of the two halves on re-assembly.

noregret4life · 09-21-2007

well done guys! enjoy your 55s

**nevets** · 09-22-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by etyu

Just an update: on the 2008 SLK 55, fortunately there is ONLY ONE torx screw (located to the rear) holding the 2 halves of the bumper sidemarker (US model) together. This makes it easier to change from OEM to the clear sidemarkers.

The aforementioned Torx screw should be shortened by 1/2 cm using a motor tool if you're using the aluminum foil method to cover the 3 holes. Shortening the screw will prevent it from pushing the aluminum foil outward and still allow good closure of the two halves on re-assembly.

Sorry for the "rookie" question but...what is the "Aluminum foil" method? ....not much of a cook

**etyu** · 09-23-2007

Here's the link: http://www.slkworld.com/general-disc...e-markers.html

Post no. 5, image below shows the 3-holes that's observable.

Post no. 14, attached image shows the holes are now inconspicuous (covered by aluminum foil, red arrows).

Post no. 16, has the narrative on how the "aluminum foil" method is done. (I've updated/edited the method).

**BradSLK55(IN)** · 06-26-2008

Same thing here on the installation of the clear sides. It was approx 2.5 hours to complete, with wheels removed. The first side, right, took over an hour and a half to do. I really like the look, didn't bother with the foil method for now.

04-20-2007	#1 (permalink)
V8SLK Elite SLK World Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Home of the brave Vehicle: 05 SLK55 AMG Posts: 1,071 Country: Thanks: 40 Thanked 48 Times in 26 Posts	clear front marker lenses thanks to my good friend Oscar (320slk). he recently put a set of the clear front marker lenses on his car. they looked great so i told him that i was interested in some for my car. well, i saw Oscar about a week later and he had a set for me. he wouldn't accept payment for them, instead i owe him a drink. so tonight when i got home from work, i went to install them. i started on the driver's side. i used a nifty little plastic wedge to try to get to the plastic latch and get the stock lens off. well, i actually broke the orange lens. that's ok, it's getting replaced anyway. well as i'm struggling to get it off and making up a few new words, i notice what looks like the threaded end of a screw holding the main unit in. SOOOO, to get behind the fender, i had to take off the plastic piece that runs under the front of the motor. i jack the car up, and sure enough, there are two torx head screws holding the unit in. with a little twisting i was able to get the rear screw out. i can see the front screw, but there's a bracket that prevents me from getting any type of tool in to get it out. well, i made up some more cuss words. i don't know how it happened, but i had a pretty damned good idea (i'm allowed 1 per year). i took my little dremel tool and was able to cut a slot in the screw allowing me to use a screwdriver from the outside and get the screw out. i put the new lens in, using just one screw to hold it in. now, over to the passenger side. CRAP! i can barley even see the screws on this side. so now, i have to remove the plastic from the inside of the wheel well. OK, so now i can get to the rear screw. i get it out and try the same process with the front screw. CRAPPPPP! i guess i didn't center my cut enough, 'cuz when i tried to unscrew it, one side snapped off. well, i took the dremel and scored the main unit. i broke it in two and was able to wiggle it out. a few more new words while buttoning things back up... some of the screw holes on the plastic piece under the motor were hard to line up. almost two and a half hours later, the lights work and the clear lenses look great. thanks Oscar!

04-20-2007	#2 (permalink)
-1- Don Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Virginia USA Vehicle: SLK 55 ///AMG The MON55TER on the block Posts: 2,224 Country: Thanks: 54 Thanked 57 Times in 41 Posts	I plan to replace mine. I figured removing the the plastic wheel liner would allow full access. Now I realize it's going to be more difficult. Anyone else with additional tips for ease of replacement?. What color bulb is recommended? The standard bulb, chrome? Again would appreciate some tips on bulbs. Last item, has anyone replaced their standard factory D2S 4100K xenons bulbs for something different, such as 6000K? I'm looking at the following. Comments? PHILIPS Ultinon 6000K D2S Xenon Bulb This is the BEST Xenon Bulb on the market. Providing the best lumen and color combination. Don't be fooled by the higher Kelvin rating Xenon Bulbs. They are very weak when comes to light output. This Xenon bulb is for Projector Headlights. It comes with One Year Limited Warranty. This listing is for a pair of Philips Ultinon 6000K D2S Xenon Bulb. MADE IN GERMANY. The Ultinon family of automotive discharge lamps was introduced by Philips to meet the significant aftermarket demand for head lighting units having a 6000K color temperature, higher than the standard 4100K type. The 4100K lamps can produce headlight beams of distinctly different colors depending on the design of the optical system into which they are incorporated. Many HID headlights now employ projection lens systems which capture all light from the lamp, thoroughly homogenize it, and then project a uniform color beam out through a mask and lens. Color variation from one projection system to another is minimal, the only difference sometimes occurring around the edge of the beam where chromatic aberrations from imperfect lenses may give the beam a purple colored lining. However with 4100K lamps in reflector style headlights, the beam will often be found to have a yellow or green color in the upper areas. The light here originates from the lower portion of the reflector. Light hitting that part of the reflector must pass through the lower half of the arc tube in which the pool of yellow-colored molten metal halide salts resides, and much of the blue light is therefore filtered out in this area. This greenish-yellow tinge is considered to be most unsightly in the aftermarket, a bluer light being strongly preferred. To satisfy this market Philips introduced this higher color temperature 6000K lamp whose dose contains indium iodide to create extra blue light __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. *----------------1-----------------* --------SLK 55 ///AMG--------- THE MON55TER ON THE BLOCK

05-13-2007	#6 (permalink)
-1- Don Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Virginia USA Vehicle: SLK 55 ///AMG The MON55TER on the block Posts: 2,224 Country: Thanks: 54 Thanked 57 Times in 41 Posts	I just installed the clear marker lights and made two additional mods to my SLK 55. I've provided some information to ease the iinstallation of the clear marker lights on a SLK 55. I also replaced the stock Philips D2S 4300k HID bulbs with Philips D2s 5000k. Here's the specs: 5000K Philips 85122+ D2S Bulb Detail Manufacturer Philips Lighting Lamp Voltage 85 Volts Lamp Power 35 Watts Luminous Flux & Efficacy 3,400 lm Colour Temperature 5,000K Rated Life 3,000 hours I also replaced the stock fog light bulbs with some 5000k halogen bulbs to better match the color of the xenon HIDs. I had ordered 9006, 6000k bulbs and was surprised to find that the factory bulbs for the SLK 55 fog lights are in fact H7 bulbs. Last, I replaced the front amber marker lenses with the clear lenses. I waited until I had all the pieces to do everything at once. First step was to jack the front right and remove the tire, and then the front section of the wheel well liner. That provided access to the rear of the headlight and the side marker lens. Everything WAS a problem. Removing the HID was a snap, replacing was just as quick. I couldn't get the ignitor to attach to the rear of the HID light. Finally figured out (by accident) with the electrical connector remove, it goes on without a problem. Next item, removal of the amber light lens. As V8SLK stated, access is difficult. There are two bolts attaching the two sections of the front fender together. Right side - I I removed those two bolts and it allowed me to flex the fender outward and provided better access to remove the two screws attaching the lens. Removal and installation went quickly. I ordered the lenses complete with the chrome (orange light) bulbs and switched them out. Last item was removing and reinstalling the right fog light bulb. The SLK 55 has a large oil cooler behind the right fog light and access is zero. I had to physically remove the right fog light from the front to change the bulb. Again, the fog light bulb is H7. Re installation of the front wheel well liner is simple, but challenging. I've done it several times on my wife's SLK and it still a challenge to install. I felt confident after doing the right side and moved to the left. The left side was super easy. Installation of the HID bulb took several minutes. Same process to replace the amber lens, removing the two bolts attaching the two fender pieces. Without the oil cooler, I had complete access to the back of the left fog light and was able to change the bulb without removing the assembly. Left side - Final observations. Not much difference in the HIDs. I checked last night with one side complete. New HIDs have a slight light blue tint which I like. The H7 5000k fog lights match the HIDs closely. Factory fog lights are too yellow. I really like the clear marker lenses. The really look good in clear and with the chrome bulbs, they burn amber and look the same as the stock lens at night. I enjoy these type of mods, but I hate disassembling my vehicles for any reason. BIG azz brakes- I Got a BIG dose of those BIG azz SLK 55 brakes, they're beautiful. Due to weather, I hadn't driven my SLK 55 in almost two weeks. Cool evening, 66 degrees, top down, went for a spin. I love this car! __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. *----------------1-----------------* --------SLK 55 ///AMG--------- THE MON55TER ON THE BLOCK Last edited by -1-; 05-13-2007 at 12:44 AM.

05-13-2007	#7 (permalink)
DansSlk Dude Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Wales Vehicle: 05 B55S (Brabus 6.1 S) Posts: 6,752 Country: Thanks: 96 Thanked 221 Times in 173 Posts	Nice job mate! The oil cooler is a PITA to work around and makes any work to that side of the cars a hated job. Remember the torque settings for the alloys! __________________ One thing you will learn with German cars - If it's simple it ain't happening.

05-13-2007	#8 (permalink)
etyu Founding Member #2 / Ambassador Of Good Will Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Orange County, CA Vehicle: 2008 SLK 55 Posts: 5,279 Country: Thanks: 376 Thanked 277 Times in 168 Posts	Excellent work -1-. Do you have pix on which bolts to remove the front wheel well cover? Do you have to remove the front wheels just to access the side markers? (I realize you were going to work on the HID and fog lamps) Or can one just flex out the fender and be able to gain access to the front screws that hold the side marker? Are these the bolts (yellow arrows) to remove so you can flex the front fender plastic to reach and remove the front screw of the side marker? In the 280, the side marker has no front screw to remove, only the rear. After removing the rear screw the side marker can be removed like opening a bivalve with the hinge up front. __________________ *Eddy* To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Pewter/Beige, PIII package, Airscarf, Hands-Free Communication System, Lighting package Designo Black Leather Cover on e-brake handle, ( To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Bill T), SmartTop v1.0, Kleyman 3BFM (NoRegret Custom), Green Air Filters, *Mod. R170 ant.*, EuroClear sidemarkers w/PIAA PlasmaIon lamps, chromed front & rear turn indicator lamps, PIAA SuperPlasmaGTX front parking lamps, bilateral rear fog lamps enabled.

04-20-2007	#4 (permalink)
chwillia SLK World Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Savannah GA Posts: 48 Country: Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I believe read on an earlier thread that it was alot easier to install on the non-AMG versions, thats why I haven't done it. Plus stories like V8SLK's above.... Heres a store that offers a package deal for $89.95. http://www.stealthauto.com/Store/Pro...uctid=MBE-1000

04-20-2007	#5 (permalink)
chwillia SLK World Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Savannah GA Posts: 48 Country: Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	The stealth bulbs look silver but blink orange. There are other brands also.

09-21-2007	#13 (permalink)
etyu Founding Member #2 / Ambassador Of Good Will Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Orange County, CA Vehicle: 2008 SLK 55 Posts: 5,279 Country: Thanks: 376 Thanked 277 Times in 168 Posts	Just an update: on the 2008 SLK 55, fortunately there is ONLY ONE torx screw (located to the rear) holding the 2 halves of the bumper sidemarker (US model) together. This makes it easier to change from OEM to the clear sidemarkers. The aforementioned Torx screw should be shortened by 1/2 cm using a motor tool if you're using the aluminum foil method to cover the 3 holes. Shortening the screw will prevent it from pushing the aluminum foil outward and still allow good closure of the two halves on re-assembly. __________________ *Eddy* To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Pewter/Beige, PIII package, Airscarf, Hands-Free Communication System, Lighting package Designo Black Leather Cover on e-brake handle, ( To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Bill T), SmartTop v1.0, Kleyman 3BFM (NoRegret Custom), Green Air Filters, *Mod. R170 ant.*, EuroClear sidemarkers w/PIAA PlasmaIon lamps, chromed front & rear turn indicator lamps, PIAA SuperPlasmaGTX front parking lamps, bilateral rear fog lamps enabled.

09-21-2007	#14 (permalink)
noregret4life Elite SLK World Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: NJ Vehicle: '05 SLK350 Posts: 1,092 Country: Thanks: 1 Thanked 17 Times in 11 Posts	well done guys! enjoy your 55s

09-23-2007	#16 (permalink)
etyu Founding Member #2 / Ambassador Of Good Will Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Orange County, CA Vehicle: 2008 SLK 55 Posts: 5,279 Country: Thanks: 376 Thanked 277 Times in 168 Posts	Here's the link: http://www.slkworld.com/general-disc...e-markers.html Post no. 5, image below shows the 3-holes that's observable. Post no. 14, attached image shows the holes are now inconspicuous (covered by aluminum foil, red arrows). Post no. 16, has the narrative on how the "aluminum foil" method is done. (I've updated/edited the method). __________________ *Eddy* To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Pewter/Beige, PIII package, Airscarf, Hands-Free Communication System, Lighting package Designo Black Leather Cover on e-brake handle, ( To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Bill T), SmartTop v1.0, Kleyman 3BFM (NoRegret Custom), Green Air Filters, *Mod. R170 ant.*, EuroClear sidemarkers w/PIAA PlasmaIon lamps, chromed front & rear turn indicator lamps, PIAA SuperPlasmaGTX front parking lamps, bilateral rear fog lamps enabled.

06-26-2008	#17 (permalink)
BradSLK55(IN) ISELLMBZ Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Valparaiso, IN Vehicle: 2006 SLK55 Other Toys: 05 C230 Sport (wife's) Posts: 27 Country: Thanks: 2 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts	Same thing here on the installation of the clear sides. It was approx 2.5 hours to complete, with wheels removed. The first side, right, took over an hour and a half to do. I really like the look, didn't bother with the foil method for now.