Just encountered WIS document AZ82.10-P-0020V, "Retrofit daytime running lights."
This applies ONLY to facelift, non-AMG bumper models.
It's all factory and includes light units, wiring harness, and control unit.
Unfortunately the document states "see parts department" instead of providing the kit part number. Does not appear to require STAR equipment, so a DIY for the ambitious.
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Thanks for that information.
I've searched to try and find more info, without success. Do you know if it is possible for me to view the whole document somehow to see what is involved?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lkchris
In the USA we can "subscribe" for 24 hrs for $18 and view any and all WIS documents.
Others should respond to describe the procedure for Europe.
I see.
I'm curious to know roughly what the procedure involves. For instance, are the mesh panels a replacement item or do you need to cut your existing panel.
Are you able to advise me regarding this before I perhaps take it up with my local dealer?
remove front bumper
retrofit the wiring harness (connects to front SAM, which you've demounted)
make hole in mesh grille and mount lamps
remount bumper
mount left and right control units to bumper (drill holes)
The complete list of WIS procedures is ...
AZ82.10-P-0020V, "Retrofit daytime running lights"
AR54.21-P-1260V, "Remove SAM control unit with fuse and relay box, left front
AR61.20-P-1105V, "Remove/install bottom engine compartment paneling"
AR88.20-P-2000V, "Remove front bumper"
AZ82.10-P-0020-02V, "Retrofit daytime running lights wiring harness"
AZ82.10-P-0020-01V, "Retrofit daytime running lights headlamp"
AZ82.10-P-0020-03V, "Retrofit daytime running lights control unit"
Not sure whether further procedures are referenced by bumper, paneling, and SAM instructions. The first is the "control document" of sorts and note that I've corrected the reference in original post. Clearly there's probably a reference to disconnecting/reconnecting battery!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lkchris
It goes pretty much like this:
remove front bumper
retrofit the wiring harness (connects to front SAM, which you've demounted)
make hole in mesh grille and mount lamps
remount bumper
mount left and right control units to bumper (drill holes)
The complete list of WIS procedures is ...
AZ82.10-P-0020V, "Retrofit daytime running lights"
AR54.21-P-1260V, "Remove SAM control unit with fuse and relay box, left front
AR61.20-P-1105V, "Remove/install bottom engine compartment paneling"
AR88.20-P-2000V, "Remove front bumper"
AZ82.10-P-0020-02V, "Retrofit daytime running lights wiring harness"
AZ82.10-P-0020-01V, "Retrofit daytime running lights headlamp"
AZ82.10-P-0020-03V, "Retrofit daytime running lights control unit"
Not sure whether further procedures are reference by bumper, paneling, and SAM instructions. The first is the "control document" of sorts and note that I've corrected the reference in original post.
The part number for the kit to fit these DRLs is B66590116, and the price in UK is £372 + VAT=£435.
...
Dealer fitting would take the total cost to £659.18 (2.7 hours to fit).
Think I'll do this myself in the near future. Apparently no coding required.
If you do, be sure to post photos from during the installation.
I am thinking about it as well.
Are these ones that shut off automatically when normal head lights are turned on? I think this is the EU rule? Would work nicely with automatic head lights.
There is always the alternative of a no brand row of LEDs, at £30...
A mate installed such an contraption on his Honda. There was a control unit with a wire to the battery for power, a wire to park lights (?) and power to the LEDs. When engine is turned on, the control unit detects this (dropping voltage?) and turns on the LEDs. When park lights turn on (with head lights) the LEDs turn off. Works a charm and looks pretty good.
I was wondering if doing that is going to screw up the burned light bulp detection or something similar. There should be no corrent flowing from the park lights, thus no drop in voltage?
Is there somewhere to get power behind the main switch (ignition key) instead?