OMG, I put in the Mods4Cars module

mtiede · 12-17-2006

I had already read excellent descriptions of others adding this module and the prior Piecha module so I was prepared for what needed doing. And I have done mechanical things on cars in the past. (used to have a 1972 VW camper with manually set valves and dual carburetors. I used to set the values and balance the air flow amongst other things)

But I was not prepared for how hard it really was. That carpet was REALLY hard to bend and move out of the way.

And the instructions say to unclip the lid of the box before opening it. Now if they had just said HOW to unclip the lid. I knew from others exactly where those clips were, but no amount of pushing with my sore fingers was able to get it loose. On hindsight, I think if you push in on the SIDE of the box toward the inside of the car, maybe the clip will come loose. I used brute strength.

Sweat was dripping off my nose by then. I put a finger in a hole in the top of the lid at the back and pulled on that son of a bitch. Broke the first clip latch and part of the top off. But it came loose

Then I was able to pull on the lip edge and get the next one off. By the time I worked my way to the front of the top, that edge was under a plastic box coming down on it from the front. So by this time I was pissed enough that I just yanked the thing up and broke off part of that end of the lid too.

So the lid comes off by unclipping it.

Then that pesky connector. Again I had read about pushing the clips on the side, etc. But by then my fingers were really sore and no amount of pushing and pulling seemed to loosen the thing up. And I wasn't sure if the little latches were to be pushed into the center of the plug or pushed outward from the plug. I tried both with no success. My fingers were sore enough I decided to use a little leverage from a screw driver. Immediately broke the end of the clip off.

After more swearing, I managed to get the other side a little loose. Then I just put a screw driver in the top between the bottom and top pieces and twisted it horizontally and the top managed to move a little. (I know even that description isn't sufficient for what it takes to get it loose)

Everything went relatively easy after that and I was pleased that apparently I picked the right red and black wires out of the bunch so that it worked first time.

Although the instructions didn't describe it, it was helpful to undo the bundles by taking a couple of the tape wraps off them. The instruction picture show the tape on the bundles and then the next pictures shows them gone. So I recommend undoing the bundles. Which of course is really awkward to do in that small space with that damn rug pushing on you.

I guess I am glad I bought the module, but it was much more of a pain than I expected to install.

**-1-** · 12-17-2006

Well, at least you're honest. You could have said, piece of cake, ten minutes and I was lowering and raising the top from afar. I think most have had trouble with the cover removal on the CANBUS. Personally, I HATE dismantling pieces of my cars, particularly the interior. I installed my Piecha module Memorial day weekend. I reviewed, and double checked the instructions. I also had some difficulty with the CANBUS cover. Other than that, fairly easy. Now the payoff was the first time I lowered the top with remote. Congratulations on your successful mod completion. Enjoy the WOW factor you'll create.

**Ynot** · 12-17-2006

The canbus is by far the hardest, I think more than half the members here broke the clip, count me as one of them too.

**-1-** · 12-17-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ynot

The canbus is by far the hardest, I think more than half the members here broke the clip, count me as one of them too.

Yup, I'm a convicted "clip" abuser. I broke one. If I remember correctly, RealLife stated he completed the install in about 30 minutes. That's the quickest I remember. It took me about an hour. Beautiful spring day, I wasn't in a hurry. My motto is, "don't rush me, I get paid by the hour".

**-1-** · 12-17-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by ///AMG 55

Hey what if it did only take me 10-15 minutes. I spent more time to try to get the thing to chirp.

I failed at that by the way

Hey Bill, your signature shows Piecha vario module. No wonder you couldn't get it to "chirp". Have you recently installed the new module?

V8SLK · 12-17-2006

mtiede, the problem was that you didn't have etyu there do the hard part for you! (i did hehehehehe)

**etyu** · 12-17-2006

mtiede, congratulations on a successful install.

The black cover over the wire harness/wire loom channel requires strong fingers to push the latch (looks like an inverted L) towards the side of the car (away from the midline) and at the same time lift the cover and usually part of the plastic that covers or spans the latch gets bent.

I was partially pissed to say the least that I cut off the plastic bar that spans the slot to which the L shape thing latches on to except for one. Not only did I have sore fingertips, I also partially ripped off the distal end of a fingernail.

The CANBUS cover can be removed only with difficulty. Here's a tip for future installers: Insert a flat head jeweler's screwdriver to lift the latches on each side. It helps when you use masking tape to tape the screwdrivers to the side of the CANBUS to prevent the jeweler's screwdrivers from falling off (I forgot to do this when I was helping V8SLK). Then gently pry off the cover (upward) with another small flat head screwdriver. It's better to pry off from one end and then the other.

After removing the CANBUS cover, I was again pissed and decided to grind off the legs of the T shaped tabs on each side of the CANBUS cover with a motor tool.

Anyway, it took me about 3 "fun" hours to install mine (original issue Piecha module), including modifying the wires so I can draw the 12V from the fusebox instead of attempting to find the red wire in the wire harness/wire loom.

mtiede · 12-17-2006

Thank you all. So it wasn't just me

My fingers hurt just typing this in...

Took me about 1 1/2 hours. I generally like to take things slow. Read the directions, re-read the directions and read the directions.

There just wasn't enough detail as to how to get that oddball canbus open. Nor I guess the wire channel box lid.

I guess someone doesn't want us fooling with this stuff

alslk · 12-18-2006

This is the part number for the can bus connector -

0025467940
-( was very cheap to replace - only a few $)

I too broke mine and intend replacing it sometime.

Baron7700 · 12-18-2006

ya I had hard time installing mine. And right where you said you were sweating like crazy... me too. After I was so pissed I did the opposite and stopped. And then NoRegret Installed mine. hah. with nothing broke!~ i was impressed. But yes it is the coolness factor that amkes it work! all worth it!

N4PWJ · 12-19-2006

The reason i haven't bought one yet is because im scared of trying to install it. I have absolutely no patience whatsoever, and i know for a fact will end up cursing and throwing a fit. This backs up my theory now, so i will have to look inot getting it fitted for me by a mate before i buy one. waiting till new year before i do anymore spending on my car anyway. let us know how you still enjoy the module a month down the line mtiede please!

mtiede · 12-19-2006

Well, it will be interesting to see how many times in the next month I even get the opportunity to use it, what with the Buffalo winter and all

But I have already cooled off a little and am looking forward to using it. I think it is definitely installable by most, it was just a lot more work than I anticipated and the connector was more trouble to try to figure out than I thought it would be based on having read everyone else's experience with it.

And I wish I hadn't busted stuff. The next person will probably have a laugh at the idiot that broke stuff. I suppose I could claim that some other shop did it

dataws6 · 07-09-2008

Somebody please help me I have a 2006 SLK 280 and I can just not get the mods4cars module to work with my car, at first the instructions said to use the "thin red wire" in my car that is not 12Volts I had to use the thick red wire for the 12Volts. Next it says to use the brown wire, well theres plenty of brown wires to choose from but the ground is not good enough so I ended up using the grounding point by the hood release. and when I finally figured all that out it still would not work. so in the Canbus it says to use the 3rd one from the right that is next to the one with the black and brown wire in it. so I did that and nothing, so I though maybe I was wrong or the instructions are wrong so I tried every single set of wires in both canbus's and none of them worked and only one of them the one with the brown and black wire in the other canbus (the one farther from the front of the car) that is the only one that would make the module blink. I have used a mulitimeter and verified that I have 12Volts at the module so it must be a problem with the wires from the canbus??? and by the way I didnt break anything and it all came apart fairly easy so maybe that is why Im having so much trouble just getting it to work.

my other question might be a little stupid but I did verify with the dealer but Im not clear on what the difference is between a r170 and a r171 this might also be my problem because I am under the impression mine is a r171 since thats what the dealership told me...

DansSlk · 07-09-2008

More likely a problem with the module than the car since without the CAN its dead, if your car is working properly the CAN is fine.

R170 and R171 are the different SLK production codes, to keep it really simple without getting into model years or anything like that - the R171 has the F1 nose and is currently in production, the R170 does not have the F1 nose and is out of production.

**etyu** · 07-09-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by dataws6

Somebody please help me I have a 2006 SLK 280 and I can just not get the mods4cars module to work with my car, at first the instructions said to use the "thin red wire" in my car that is not 12Volts I had to use the thick red wire for the 12Volts. Next it says to use the brown wire, well theres plenty of brown wires to choose from but the ground is not good enough so I ended up using the grounding point by the hood release. and when I finally figured all that out it still would not work. so in the Canbus it says to use the 3rd one from the right that is next to the one with the black and brown wire in it. so I did that and nothing, so I though maybe I was wrong or the instructions are wrong so I tried every single set of wires in both canbus's and none of them worked and only one of them the one with the brown and black wire in the other canbus (the one farther from the front of the car) that is the only one that would make the module blink. I have used a mulitimeter and verified that I have 12Volts at the module so it must be a problem with the wires from the canbus??? and by the way I didnt break anything and it all came apart fairly easy so maybe that is why Im having so much trouble just getting it to work.

my other question might be a little stupid but I did verify with the dealer but Im not clear on what the difference is between a r170 and a r171 this might also be my problem because I am under the impression mine is a r171 since thats what the dealership told me...

Help us answer your questions if you can by telling us your location, model year and type of SLK that you have.

**UK-C200** · 07-09-2008

So don't panic - step back, have a frosty beverage of your choice, smoke a cigarette (if you smoke - this is not an excuse to start!), and above all relax. A 2006 SLK280 should look like the black beast in my avatar, and is a R171.

You have managed the hardest parts, which are getting to the position where you are ready to hook things up. I'm attaching some high-res images - I don't know that they are any better or worse than the ones with the instructions, but they are different, and from an SLK.

Most of the problems I've read about would lead me to suggest : before going any further, remove the SmartTop completely from the CANBUS, and re-connect the original CAN connector in it's slot. Should not be a problem leaving the power connected to the SmartTop. Now test that your roof and windows work as expected. If so, move on down this list :

1] Check power. Sounds like you are good to go with the mulitmeter and have confirmed that you have power.

2] You should be working on the CANBUS block that's closest to the front of the car.

3] The brown/black & brown wire that the manual refers to is in the 4th position from the right end of the block (right end is towards the back of the car).

4] The one you should plug into is one more towards the back of the connector - so the third from the "back" (right) end.

5] Figuring out the 1 and 2 pin plugs on the connectors is not really easy - my eyes are bad, so I used a magnifying glass, and did it on my workbench with lots of light. It won't work if they are not in the right positions in the plug and socket. The "1" and "2" were printed on both, they are just hideously small. (and my eyes are bad - did I mention that?!

6] Based on my notes, the "plug" piece - the one that goes from the CANBUS block to the module - had the red wire on the "bottom" of the plug when it was inserted. The "Socket" side had the "red" wire connecting to the brown/red wire from the car's harness. If you look at "Installation - Steps 10-12" on the mods4cars instrunctions, and click on the image you will get a high-res version that probably "shows" this better than I can describe it in words. I'm also 100% positive that this image (10,jpg) is not from an SLK, as it's in the wrong position, and the red wire is show on "top".

If you make it to the bottom of this list, and everything is correct, I'd think you probably have a defective module. I know that one of the earlier versions took a while to "initialize / sync / whatever" with the CANBUS, but I didn't have that problem with mine, and when I switched on the key, the LED started happily blinking.

**-1-** · 07-09-2008

UK-C200 - Nice, helpful response.

dataws6 · 07-09-2008

I dont use forums much but I was suprised at how quickly everyone responded and helped me out with this, the pictures helped out I had hooked it up correctly in the first place but I guess after a couple beers and the frustration of the instructions giving me the wrong wires for power and ground I didnt hook up one of the wires from the module, but the pictures helped and it took me all of 3 minutes to hook it up and get it working and its better than I imagined! I suggest anyone with a power top get this product!!! and I have to say I love the chirp function I was always locking my car twice because I had to look back and see if the lights flashed everytime I locked it since there was no sound confirmation but now there is!
again thanks to those of you that helped me out!

12-17-2006	#1 (permalink)
mtiede Founding Member #7 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Western New York Vehicle: 2006 SLK 350 Posts: 1,642 Thanks: 100 Thanked 55 Times in 45 Posts	OMG, I put in the Mods4Cars module I had already read excellent descriptions of others adding this module and the prior Piecha module so I was prepared for what needed doing. And I have done mechanical things on cars in the past. (used to have a 1972 VW camper with manually set valves and dual carburetors. I used to set the values and balance the air flow amongst other things) But I was not prepared for how hard it really was. That carpet was REALLY hard to bend and move out of the way. And the instructions say to unclip the lid of the box before opening it. Now if they had just said HOW to unclip the lid. I knew from others exactly where those clips were, but no amount of pushing with my sore fingers was able to get it loose. On hindsight, I think if you push in on the SIDE of the box toward the inside of the car, maybe the clip will come loose. I used brute strength. Sweat was dripping off my nose by then. I put a finger in a hole in the top of the lid at the back and pulled on that son of a bitch. Broke the first clip latch and part of the top off. But it came loose Then I was able to pull on the lip edge and get the next one off. By the time I worked my way to the front of the top, that edge was under a plastic box coming down on it from the front. So by this time I was pissed enough that I just yanked the thing up and broke off part of that end of the lid too. So the lid comes off by unclipping it. Then that pesky connector. Again I had read about pushing the clips on the side, etc. But by then my fingers were really sore and no amount of pushing and pulling seemed to loosen the thing up. And I wasn't sure if the little latches were to be pushed into the center of the plug or pushed outward from the plug. I tried both with no success. My fingers were sore enough I decided to use a little leverage from a screw driver. Immediately broke the end of the clip off. After more swearing, I managed to get the other side a little loose. Then I just put a screw driver in the top between the bottom and top pieces and twisted it horizontally and the top managed to move a little. (I know even that description isn't sufficient for what it takes to get it loose) Everything went relatively easy after that and I was pleased that apparently I picked the right red and black wires out of the bunch so that it worked first time. Although the instructions didn't describe it, it was helpful to undo the bundles by taking a couple of the tape wraps off them. The instruction picture show the tape on the bundles and then the next pictures shows them gone. So I recommend undoing the bundles. Which of course is really awkward to do in that small space with that damn rug pushing on you. I guess I am glad I bought the module, but it was much more of a pain than I expected to install.

12-17-2006	#2 (permalink)
-1- Don Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Virginia USA Vehicle: SLK 55 ///AMG The MON55TER on the block Posts: 2,224 Country: Thanks: 54 Thanked 57 Times in 41 Posts	Well, at least you're honest. You could have said, piece of cake, ten minutes and I was lowering and raising the top from afar. I think most have had trouble with the cover removal on the CANBUS. Personally, I HATE dismantling pieces of my cars, particularly the interior. I installed my Piecha module Memorial day weekend. I reviewed, and double checked the instructions. I also had some difficulty with the CANBUS cover. Other than that, fairly easy. Now the payoff was the first time I lowered the top with remote. Congratulations on your successful mod completion. Enjoy the WOW factor you'll create. __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. *----------------1-----------------* --------SLK 55 ///AMG--------- THE MON55TER ON THE BLOCK

12-17-2006	#3 (permalink)
Ynot Founding Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Colorado Vehicle: 06' MBZ SLK Posts: 2,795 Country: Thanks: 135 Thanked 35 Times in 30 Posts	The canbus is by far the hardest, I think more than half the members here broke the clip, count me as one of them too. __________________ 06' SLK 350, Iridium/Ash all pkgs. 6-spd, 19" DCR. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

12-17-2006	#7 (permalink)
etyu Founding Member #2 / Ambassador Of Good Will Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Orange County, CA Vehicle: 2008 SLK 55 Posts: 5,279 Country: Thanks: 376 Thanked 277 Times in 168 Posts	mtiede, congratulations on a successful install. The black cover over the wire harness/wire loom channel requires strong fingers to push the latch (looks like an inverted L) towards the side of the car (away from the midline) and at the same time lift the cover and usually part of the plastic that covers or spans the latch gets bent. I was partially pissed to say the least that I cut off the plastic bar that spans the slot to which the L shape thing latches on to except for one. Not only did I have sore fingertips, I also partially ripped off the distal end of a fingernail. The CANBUS cover can be removed only with difficulty. Here's a tip for future installers: Insert a flat head jeweler's screwdriver to lift the latches on each side. It helps when you use masking tape to tape the screwdrivers to the side of the CANBUS to prevent the jeweler's screwdrivers from falling off (I forgot to do this when I was helping V8SLK). Then gently pry off the cover (upward) with another small flat head screwdriver. It's better to pry off from one end and then the other. After removing the CANBUS cover, I was again pissed and decided to grind off the legs of the T shaped tabs on each side of the CANBUS cover with a motor tool. Anyway, it took me about 3 "fun" hours to install mine (original issue Piecha module), including modifying the wires so I can draw the 12V from the fusebox instead of attempting to find the red wire in the wire harness/wire loom. __________________ *Eddy* To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Pewter/Beige, PIII package, Airscarf, Hands-Free Communication System, Lighting package Designo Black Leather Cover on e-brake handle, ( To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Bill T), SmartTop v1.0, Kleyman 3BFM (NoRegret Custom), Green Air Filters, *Mod. R170 ant.*, EuroClear sidemarkers w/PIAA PlasmaIon lamps, chromed front & rear turn indicator lamps, PIAA SuperPlasmaGTX front parking lamps, bilateral rear fog lamps enabled.

07-09-2008	#13 (permalink)
dataws6 SLK World Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Hawaii Vehicle: 06 SLK 280 Other Toys: Ducati 848, Trans Am WS6 Posts: 4 Country: Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I cant get the mods4cars thing to work Somebody please help me I have a 2006 SLK 280 and I can just not get the mods4cars module to work with my car, at first the instructions said to use the "thin red wire" in my car that is not 12Volts I had to use the thick red wire for the 12Volts. Next it says to use the brown wire, well theres plenty of brown wires to choose from but the ground is not good enough so I ended up using the grounding point by the hood release. and when I finally figured all that out it still would not work. so in the Canbus it says to use the 3rd one from the right that is next to the one with the black and brown wire in it. so I did that and nothing, so I though maybe I was wrong or the instructions are wrong so I tried every single set of wires in both canbus's and none of them worked and only one of them the one with the brown and black wire in the other canbus (the one farther from the front of the car) that is the only one that would make the module blink. I have used a mulitimeter and verified that I have 12Volts at the module so it must be a problem with the wires from the canbus??? and by the way I didnt break anything and it all came apart fairly easy so maybe that is why Im having so much trouble just getting it to work. my other question might be a little stupid but I did verify with the dealer but Im not clear on what the difference is between a r170 and a r171 this might also be my problem because I am under the impression mine is a r171 since thats what the dealership told me...

12-17-2006	#6 (permalink)
V8SLK Elite SLK World Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Home of the brave Vehicle: 05 SLK55 AMG Posts: 1,071 Country: Thanks: 40 Thanked 48 Times in 26 Posts	mtiede, the problem was that you didn't have etyu there do the hard part for you! (i did hehehehehe)

12-17-2006	#8 (permalink)
mtiede Founding Member #7 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Western New York Vehicle: 2006 SLK 350 Posts: 1,642 Thanks: 100 Thanked 55 Times in 45 Posts	Thank you all. So it wasn't just me My fingers hurt just typing this in... Took me about 1 1/2 hours. I generally like to take things slow. Read the directions, re-read the directions and read the directions. There just wasn't enough detail as to how to get that oddball canbus open. Nor I guess the wire channel box lid. I guess someone doesn't want us fooling with this stuff

12-18-2006	#9 (permalink)
alslk SLK World Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Perth Australia Vehicle: SLK 350 Posts: 14 Country: Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	This is the part number for the can bus connector - 0025467940 -( was very cheap to replace - only a few $) I too broke mine and intend replacing it sometime.

12-18-2006	#10 (permalink)
Baron7700 Elite SLK World Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Pennyslvania Vehicle: 2006 Slk 350 Other Toys: Lots of ATV's Posts: 1,599 Country: Thanks: 3 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	ya I had hard time installing mine. And right where you said you were sweating like crazy... me too. After I was so pissed I did the opposite and stopped. And then NoRegret Installed mine. hah. with nothing broke!~ i was impressed. But yes it is the coolness factor that amkes it work! all worth it!

12-19-2006	#11 (permalink)
N4PWJ Elite SLK World Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Belfast,N.Ireland Vehicle: 2006,slk280,carlsson Other Toys: Caterham Posts: 1,417 Country: Thanks: 1 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	The reason i haven't bought one yet is because im scared of trying to install it. I have absolutely no patience whatsoever, and i know for a fact will end up cursing and throwing a fit. This backs up my theory now, so i will have to look inot getting it fitted for me by a mate before i buy one. waiting till new year before i do anymore spending on my car anyway. let us know how you still enjoy the module a month down the line mtiede please!

12-19-2006	#12 (permalink)
mtiede Founding Member #7 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Western New York Vehicle: 2006 SLK 350 Posts: 1,642 Thanks: 100 Thanked 55 Times in 45 Posts	Well, it will be interesting to see how many times in the next month I even get the opportunity to use it, what with the Buffalo winter and all But I have already cooled off a little and am looking forward to using it. I think it is definitely installable by most, it was just a lot more work than I anticipated and the connector was more trouble to try to figure out than I thought it would be based on having read everyone else's experience with it. And I wish I hadn't busted stuff. The next person will probably have a laugh at the idiot that broke stuff. I suppose I could claim that some other shop did it

07-09-2008	#14 (permalink)
DansSlk Dude Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Wales Vehicle: 05 B55S (Brabus 6.1 S) Posts: 6,752 Country: Thanks: 96 Thanked 221 Times in 173 Posts	More likely a problem with the module than the car since without the CAN its dead, if your car is working properly the CAN is fine. R170 and R171 are the different SLK production codes, to keep it really simple without getting into model years or anything like that - the R171 has the F1 nose and is currently in production, the R170 does not have the F1 nose and is out of production. __________________ One thing you will learn with German cars - If it's simple it ain't happening.

07-09-2008	#16 (permalink)
UK-C200 Elite SLK World Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: London, UK & Baton Rouge, Louisiana Vehicle: 04 RHD C200K Coupe, 06 LHD SLK-350 Other Toys: Nacra F18 Posts: 576 Country: Thanks: 37 Thanked 124 Times in 78 Posts	So don't panic - step back, have a frosty beverage of your choice, smoke a cigarette (if you smoke - this is not an excuse to start!), and above all relax. A 2006 SLK280 should look like the black beast in my avatar, and is a R171. You have managed the hardest parts, which are getting to the position where you are ready to hook things up. I'm attaching some high-res images - I don't know that they are any better or worse than the ones with the instructions, but they are different, and from an SLK. Most of the problems I've read about would lead me to suggest : before going any further, remove the SmartTop completely from the CANBUS, and re-connect the original CAN connector in it's slot. Should not be a problem leaving the power connected to the SmartTop. Now test that your roof and windows work as expected. If so, move on down this list : 1] Check power. Sounds like you are good to go with the mulitmeter and have confirmed that you have power. 2] You should be working on the CANBUS block that's closest to the front of the car. 3] The brown/black & brown wire that the manual refers to is in the 4th position from the right end of the block (right end is towards the back of the car). 4] The one you should plug into is one more towards the back of the connector - so the third from the "back" (right) end. 5] Figuring out the 1 and 2 pin plugs on the connectors is not really easy - my eyes are bad, so I used a magnifying glass, and did it on my workbench with lots of light. It won't work if they are not in the right positions in the plug and socket. The "1" and "2" were printed on both, they are just hideously small. (and my eyes are bad - did I mention that?! 6] Based on my notes, the "plug" piece - the one that goes from the CANBUS block to the module - had the red wire on the "bottom" of the plug when it was inserted. The "Socket" side had the "red" wire connecting to the brown/red wire from the car's harness. If you look at "Installation - Steps 10-12" on the mods4cars instrunctions, and click on the image you will get a high-res version that probably "shows" this better than I can describe it in words. I'm also 100% positive that this image (10,jpg) is not from an SLK, as it's in the wrong position, and the red wire is show on "top". If you make it to the bottom of this list, and everything is correct, I'd think you probably have a defective module. I know that one of the earlier versions took a while to "initialize / sync / whatever" with the CANBUS, but I didn't have that problem with mine, and when I switched on the key, the LED started happily blinking.

07-09-2008	#17 (permalink)
-1- Don Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Virginia USA Vehicle: SLK 55 ///AMG The MON55TER on the block Posts: 2,224 Country: Thanks: 54 Thanked 57 Times in 41 Posts	UK-C200 - Nice, helpful response. __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. *----------------1-----------------* --------SLK 55 ///AMG--------- THE MON55TER ON THE BLOCK

07-09-2008	#18 (permalink)
dataws6 SLK World Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Hawaii Vehicle: 06 SLK 280 Other Toys: Ducati 848, Trans Am WS6 Posts: 4 Country: Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Great forum! I dont use forums much but I was suprised at how quickly everyone responded and helped me out with this, the pictures helped out I had hooked it up correctly in the first place but I guess after a couple beers and the frustration of the instructions giving me the wrong wires for power and ground I didnt hook up one of the wires from the module, but the pictures helped and it took me all of 3 minutes to hook it up and get it working and its better than I imagined! I suggest anyone with a power top get this product!!! and I have to say I love the chirp function I was always locking my car twice because I had to look back and see if the lights flashed everytime I locked it since there was no sound confirmation but now there is! again thanks to those of you that helped me out!