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Old 12-04-2006   #1 (permalink)
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Default mods4cars smartTOP

I purchased the smartTOP roof module and got it today. I will probably install it this weekend.

I have the following questions prior installing the module:
- How will the module be connected to 12V power?
- Do I need any cuts to existing cables or adding to the current cables either from the car's or the module's.
- Do I need any special tools?
- Are the door sill panels removed easily?
- Since I have a manual gearbox, I also have a 3rd pedal. This makes the removal of the carpet more difficult?

If anyone knows any of the above, let me know.

Last edited by thanosSLK; 12-04-2006 at 06:26 AM.
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Old 12-04-2006   #2 (permalink)
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Check out this link for installation instructions:-


http://www.wilhelmy-it.de/sms/db/sma.../en.php?mode=1

γειάσου και καλή τύχη !
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Old 12-04-2006   #3 (permalink)
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I have already saw the instructions in the link you sent me. The thing is that since I am unaware of the procedure I would like to know if there is something I should pay attention to...
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Old 12-04-2006   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thanosSLK View Post
I purchased the smartTOP roof module and got it today. I will probably install it this weekend.

I have the following questions prior installing the module:
- How will the module be connected to 12V power?
- Do I need any cuts to existing cables or adding to the current cables either from the car's or the module's.
- Do I need any special tools?
- Are the door sill panels removed easily?
- Since I have a manual gearbox, I also have a 3rd pedal. This makes the removal of the carpet more difficult?

If anyone knows any of the above, let me know.
You will have to draw power by crimping the correct red solid wire in the wire loom/harness.

Page 30, post no. 295 of this link: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r171...e-roof-30.html, if you want to draw power from the fuse box instead of crimping.

No special tools except for the torx screw and small screwdrivers to release the side tabs in order to remove the CAN BUS cover.

The door sill panel come off easily just pull upward and away with medium force, you will hear it click away/disengage form the clips. Start from the rear end and work towards the front.

It should still be "do-able" on a left hand drive vehicle with manual transmission and a clutch pedal. I used a wooden dowel (with masking tape at the ends, to minimize scratching paintwork) to prop the carpet up and away.
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Old 12-05-2006   #5 (permalink)
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So, you think that it is better to draw power from the fuse box instead of crimping?? Is it better for security reasons? Do you know from where I can purchase the fuse holder and the extended cable? Do you know their specs? Also, I think that the impedance of the cable will change as I will have extend the original cable, so as to reach the fuse box.

I guess that the mod will be easier to be spotted as the new fuse holder can be seen by an MB mechanic...
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Old 12-05-2006   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by thanosSLK View Post
So, you think that it is better to draw power from the fuse box instead of crimping?? Is it better for security reasons? Do you know from where I can purchase the fuse holder and the extended cable? Do you know their specs? Also, I think that the impedance of the cable will change as I will have extend the original cable, so as to reach the fuse box.

I guess that the mod will be easier to be spotted as the new fuse holder can be seen by an MB mechanic...
I wouldn't say it's better; however, I've read of at least 2 posts ,one here and another at benzworld, where they crimped the wrong wire and blew a fuse and it was a major headache looking for the correct fuse (the car in one case wouldn't even start).

Check out page 28 (my post) on the link I provided above in an earlier post and page 30 has a picture of the ATO add-a-circuit. This can be purchased from any auto supply store. The chances that a tech will have to open a fuse box is low unless you have electrical issues.

It doesn't matter how long the power supply and the ground wire is. It is the length of the wires that lead to the CAN BUS that has the impedance optimized (I believe).
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Old 12-05-2006   #7 (permalink)
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Better to go with the fuse box option the reason being your going to get a more reliable connection and you have fuse protection also as etyu pointed out no chance of tapping something that should not be messed with and causing yourself some major headaches or worst case major bills.

There is very little that can go wrong simply adding a fuse its basically plug and play just disconnect your battery while you are installing the fuse holder just because its good practice to do so you can hook it back up again afterward and just install the fuse once your done.

CAN BUS wires are more important and should never be extended unless done correctly because you can kill the car with a dodgey connection, extending them should not be done unless its really the last option as i say so long as you do it right and don't add a stupid amount of wire you wont get any problems but if it ain't broke don't fix it you know what i mean
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Old 01-14-2007   #8 (permalink)
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I wouldn't say it's better; however, I've read of at least 2 posts ,one here and another at benzworld, where they crimped the wrong wire and blew a fuse and it was a major headache looking for the correct fuse (the car in one case wouldn't even start).

Check out page 28 (my post) on the link I provided above in an earlier post and page 30 has a picture of the ATO add-a-circuit. This can be purchased from any auto supply store. The chances that a tech will have to open a fuse box is low unless you have electrical issues.

It doesn't matter how long the power supply and the ground wire is. It is the length of the wires that lead to the CAN BUS that has the impedance optimized (I believe).
My problem is after 4 times of crimping power wire, the wire is about to break apart. :-(

I think I need to get in there and solder the wire up for support.
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Old 01-14-2007   #9 (permalink)
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Good idea don't let it break whatever you do.
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Old 01-18-2007   #10 (permalink)
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Don't you run the risk of maint/dealer finding the mod when they check on your fuses and losing warranty?
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Old 01-18-2007   #11 (permalink)
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The dealer should not check fuses unless something is wrong with the car there is no check done during services that instructs them to do it so unless you have a problem with the car that they suspect leads back to a blown fuse they wont find it.
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Old 01-18-2007   #12 (permalink)
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Don't you run the risk of maint/dealer finding the mod when they check on your fuses and losing warranty?
I've went in for maintenance 3x -- first acquaintance visit, ECU cold weather recall and service A. The varioroof module was deactivated prior to service each time and no word from the technician. I even demonstrated the module to the service advisor on the first visit and he was quite amused (I do have a good relationship with the service advisor and service manager), and I live in SoCal.
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Old 01-18-2007   #13 (permalink)
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i just disabled my module since we're going in for c service tomorrow. i'm curious if anybody knows...once re-enabled, does one need to reprogram the module? does it go back to the default settings or go back to the last programmed setting??????????????????
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Old 01-19-2007   #14 (permalink)
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Scott, I disabled the SmartTop module prior to going for service A. After reactivating the module, the prior settings were kept, it did not revert back to the factory default settings, e.g., the ignition off allowed in Function 2 was retained, the ignition on allowed in function 3 was retained, and the program to operate roof while vehicle is in motion was retained.

I double checked by going into the programming mode and checked each function with the up button and checking how many times the right indicator light/turn signal lamp flashed within each function.
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Old 01-19-2007   #15 (permalink)
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i just disabled my module since we're going in for c service tomorrow. i'm curious if anybody knows...once re-enabled, does one need to reprogram the module? does it go back to the default settings or go back to the last programmed setting??????????????????
The original piecha CVM goes back to the last kept settings before it was disabled.

My battery is fully charged now and I'm getting a roof error, visit workshop, haven't had time to look at it yet.
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Old 01-19-2007   #16 (permalink)
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Disconnect the module mate from both CAN and Power if possible then disconnect the battery for about 20 mins to erase the cars fault memory power it back up check everything works as per factory then reconnect the module like the first time you installed it.

A bit of bad design by the original manufacturers of the roof module there it obviously does not make it self available on the bus quick enough and does not allow communication to pass it without it being in the loop at all times.
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Old 01-19-2007   #17 (permalink)
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Disconnect the module mate from both CAN and Power if possible then disconnect the battery for about 20 mins to erase the cars fault memory power it back up check everything works as per factory then reconnect the module like the first time you installed it.

A bit of bad design by the original manufacturers of the roof module there it obviously does not make it self available on the bus quick enough and does not allow communication to pass it without it being in the loop at all times.
Thanks Dan for the tips, will do....
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Old 01-19-2007   #18 (permalink)
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Thanks Dan for the tips, will do....
No worries mate.

The car does a check on all its systems once power is restored and all modules are required to be active and ready to respond within X number of seconds the roof module obviously is not powering up quick enough and thats stopping the car from speaking to the vario roof controller causing your error
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Old 01-19-2007   #19 (permalink)
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