My ac blow hot air , after putting the schrick camshaft on it..i dont think it related but...it didnt give any codes, my friend run a scanner and show everything is fine...
I turn on auto and it blow hot air and no matter i left car engine running for like 30min and it still blow hot air....he manually check and what seem like there is no electric to compressor...or something...Freon is check..i just got server last month.
I dont know what might have cause this...but all fuel check and its all seem fine..
Fan is blowing hot air...What you think might be a problee ?
I also have my ECU tuned from EuroCharged too...with headers and cams installed
but i dont think ECU will do anything with AC right or main control unit shut down AC ?
and also i bought L shape DRL from ebay and i wire it to foglights and take the foglights out...everytime i try to turn on fog lights i got CEL check fog lights left and right...the DRL flash on and off for while then shut down..
I see other members have it wires to foglights without no problem..i dont know why it happend to me..Maybe not enough power to power DRL ? but i dont see other members have any problem wire to foglights.
i have an amg but my drls are wired to my side markers. those that wired to fog might have european models and therefore no side markers. try the side markers as power source
Hi
. .. . and also i bought L shape DRL from ebay and i wire it to foglights and take the foglights out...everytime i try to turn on fog lights i got CEL check fog lights left and right...the DRL flash on and off for while then shut down..
I see other members have it wires to foglights without no problem..i dont know why it happend to me..Maybe not enough power to power DRL ? but i dont see other members have any problem wire to foglights.
Both the side marker lights (as in JBs setup ) and the DRLs are fairly low wattage, and will not draw a very high current, whereas the fog lights are about 55W, so the 'lamp failure' checks will kick in. You will need to include a resistor to 'up' the current draw, or run them off the side marker feed as JB has done.
sadly i already cut the fog grills n modified it with DRL ....but i would rather wire to foglights rather than marker lamps so i can switch on and off , def not want to turn on all the time to save the LED's life. But if resistors are not working , then will the CEL kick in warning about foglights error if i left foglights out ? I guess it can be disable ? some how ?
The LEDs should have a life of many thousands of hours so I wouldn't worry about leaving them on.
Without reprogramming the vehicle systems, you cannot make it ignore a bulb failure/problem. What you need to do is change the resistance of your DRLs to match that of the fogs when they are turned on.
I don't know of a way to disable the bulb out warning for the fogs. As Woolly said, your LED's are drawing a fraction of the 55 watts the fogs pull, so you are going to get a malfunction in the MFD and flashing LED's as the car polls the lights. You SHOULD NOT be getting a CEL from this!
Easiest way is to add a resistor based on the current draw of the LED vs the fogs, and it's going to have to sink at least 35 watts to avoid the bulb out, so it's going to need to be beefy and mounted to steel to sink the heat it will generate. You'll want one for each side.
On the A/C problem, I'd check pressure first, simply since it's easy. Since you had a lot of your engine torn down, it's probably easiest to get an Indy with Star to check and see if the car knows what's wrong, otherwise you just have to work the tree and check clutch, duovalve, etc.
On the AC problems, he had the machine to plug in and scan see if give any error codes for AC but everything show up nothing.. I mean it should've show up on scanner or something right if not in CEL.
still could not detect the problem, im going to dealer to run diagnose tomorrow see if they can find the problem,...hopefully they can see what have cause this...
AC blowing hot air , its not like on and off but just hot air..
Turn out they detect it was Sam unit that faulty..and when they swap to new unit the AC blow cold air..but I don't think the whole unit fried or faulty since everything else seem working...also they say ESP malfunction because of Sam unit too..now does it necessary to replace whole Sam unit costs 500$ for the part!!
if i have understand correct you have connect the L form DRLs to the fog light cables right?
how you managed to get errors free?
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Mercedes SLK World
1.3M posts
78.8K members
Since 2006
A forum community dedicated to Mercedes SLK owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about your R170/R171/R172 SLK, or AMG performance, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!